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WINTER 2021 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/d70dd28a-d716-446f-8b1d-e60ee8819ced/Screenshot+2024-11-01+at+3.51.57%E2%80%AFPM.png Women's Runway Insights - SPRING / SUMMER 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/0e292fbc-25b1-47ee-ae28-af9e11706992/Screenshot+2024-11-06+at+3.06.21%E2%80%AFPM.png Women's Runway Insights - SPRING / SUMMER 2024 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/e4fb0f1d-1c37-41d5-bead-024fddb285ff/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+5.13.50%E2%80%AFPM.png Women's Runway Insights - SPRING / SUMMER 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/22f61132-7882-4455-ab4f-2762adbd59b9/Screenshot+2021-12-21+at+4.44.47+pm.png Women's Runway Insights - SPRING / SUMMER 2022 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/a961769f-5554-4493-9043-77723e0de1a2/Screenshot+2021-12-21+at+4.35.11+pm.png Women's Runway Insights - SPRING / SUMMER 2021 https://bridgetknowles.com/spring-summer-2021 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/40a82a06-e342-45a7-9e17-73b56ce4bd1c/Screenshot+2021-12-21+at+4.08.45+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2021 - COTTAGE CORE The desire to explore the outdoors encourages a cottage-inspired life. Olive and Orchid Hush are used in smock-tiered dresses, criss-cross backings, and patchwork clothing. Ulia Johnson’s quilted coats and Marc Jacobs’ folklore have popularized this high-summer mood. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/2f080a3b-8328-4b77-bdb4-efa68694c6d9/Screenshot+2021-12-21+at+4.22.06+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2021 - STEEZY DOES IT Styling-made-easy, “steezy,” 70’s revival continues to play out through retro floral prints, denim flares, and a heavy emphasis on crochet knits. Old-school skater styling is seen in pastel palettes by Dior and Alberta Ferretti on the runway. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/aae70f25-5905-4cdc-9699-5883087baaa5/Screenshot+2021-12-21+at+4.24.55+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2021 - NEO COWBOY The modernized American West is brought to life through patchwork, suede jackets, and denim. Graphic band tees with wide-legged trousers define the new-age cowboy. Look to earthy toned palettes seen at Isabel Marant, Acne Studios, and Dior. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/b933af27-81d8-4b17-8346-851fd4f34d18/Screenshot+2021-12-21+at+4.09.43+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2021 - FUNCTIONAL FUTURE By emphasizing contrast contours, futuristic prints, and easy-tailored clothing, the new consumer is given the opportunity to consider future classics. Fine lines and unfussy details are seen in dusted greens, pale neutrals, and French navy. Boss and Givenchy prove notable for this comfort-driven aesthetic. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/316588f6-4b2c-445f-add9-7d9093a8442e/Screenshot+2021-12-21+at+4.20.08+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2021 - LUXE ATHLEISURE Luxe athleisure dominates track and field, from sweatshirts and cycle shorts to rib cuts and jersey shirts in colors Preppy Red, AI Aqua, or Blush Pink. Key runway designers include Miu Miu and Balenciaga. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/6f3abdb8-f724-4165-b5f1-2e4b632aafe6/Screenshot+2021-12-21+at+4.26.17+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2021 - FEMININE EASE Ruffles and lace in florals, alongside delicate sheers, become the baseline for occasion and ease of wear. Full volume dresses, puffed sleeves, and sheer silks in watercolor tints, Soap Nut, and Silver Green uplift consumers. Intimates-inspired clothing provides a new understanding of sexy dressing. Notable designers include Ulia Johnson and Molly Goddard. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/f2de82b6-2153-4963-8304-29d4858fc0c6/Screenshot+2021-12-21+at+4.16.25+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2021 - TIME AFTER TIME Calming tones Indigo Bunting and Spirulina emerge to create cross-generational, timeless clothing. These forever pieces are translated in neutral and earthy tones, incorporating nature-like textures and monotone styling. Look to Jil Sander and Giada for this streamlined appeal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/aff2c335-b76c-42c7-aba6-798e1c0648b8/Screenshot+2021-12-21+at+4.11.48+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2021 - SEABREEZE Uplifting colors, vibrant patterns, and an overwhelming sense of optimism create a nautical theme, catapulting consumers into an escapist summer. Underwater patterns are seen in Pale Lime, Hyper Pink, and AI Aqua. Voluminous shapes, statement cutwork, and relaxed separates are seen at Jason Wu, Valentino, and Dries Van Noten. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/621b1e75-2a66-4fc6-ad71-acb9fdf83685/Screenshot+2021-12-21+at+4.31.28+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2021 - STAYCATION Renewed love for the outdoors inspires a capsule of comfort through throw-on dressing. Terracotta, Mango Sorbet and Bark are seen in nature-inspired prints, checks, and monochrome stripes. The femme jumpsuit dictates the new look of holiday seen at Missing Caption and Ganni. https://bridgetknowles.com/fall-winter-2022 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/adcc7645-704b-42b3-b21e-d10e01a7c945/Screenshot+2022-01-23+at+4.01.30+pm.png MW FALL / WINTER 2022 - NO CHILL ENERGY No one gave them the right, but here they are doing it. JW Anderson, MSGM, and the much-anticipated Paris debut of Bianca Saunders screamed one thing and one thing only: heavy on the serotonin. Trailblazing our burgeoning wave of dopamine-inspired fits, an inciting energy exploded in Blazing Yellow, Fuchsia Rose, and Brilliant Blue, led by the champion it-color of the season, Kelly Green. Surrealism got really real. We’re talking abstracts, color blocks, trippy prints, creature graphics, and whacked-out motifs. The weirder, the brighter, and the more it makes you stop and look, the better. Elephants? sure. Heart-shaped nipple cut-outs? Literally, why not. It’s 2022; we’re unhinged. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/1ce33bc8-189c-49c0-8620-936668e90e83/Screenshot+2022-01-23+at+4.34.33+pm.png MW FALL / WINTER 2022 - INDIE SLEAZE The 90s grunge revival has reignited the runway with an unironic irony the 00’s emo babies know best. All-black baggy fits, leather accents, and the slouchy blazer silhouette are dropping to the beat of Vampire Weekend’s biggest hits. Megan Fox and MGK are sharing blood, Kourtney Kardashian and Travis Barker gave life to the blurry candid, and Rick Owens, in Rick Owens-like fashion, is fearlessly leading our grunge newcomers Federico Cina and, notably, Hermés, towards the relentless, neon wayfarer nostalgia that is indiesleaze. Fire up your Tumblr pages, unbox that American Apparel, and get your digital camera ready. The mid-aught hipsters are back, and frankly, they don’t care what you think. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/4dcc2b35-67df-4370-b7ca-964e06a5c472/Screenshot+2022-01-23+at+4.07.55+pm.png MW FALL / WINTER 2022 - SARTORIAL FIT CHECK The modern man again gets more modern with an ever-evolving sartorial silhouette, embracing the zeitgeist of chilled out tailoring and relaxed fits. On one end of the suited-up male spectrum, power fitting and a focus on waistlines formed structured looks and a rowdy attitude, amplified by the key color Mazarine Blue. Sans the need for a statement, the kicked back sartorial male took notes from fluidity with drop shouldered, roomy silhouettes in the popularized Egret. Look to Prada’s shoulders and Fendi’s longline shirt to get the hint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/cb9a7eba-7787-48ba-8606-21b7e6a3110a/Screenshot+2022-01-23+at+4.04.57+pm.png MW FALL / WINTER 2022 - TMZ HAS ENTERED THE CHAT It’s no double-denim Britney and Justin at the 2001 MTV Music Awards, but it’ll have to do. Y2K is back. Like Flo Rida, our denim is cut low, and if that’s not enough, then we’re once again buying into logomania because it’s worth it and we’d like to work it. Key colors Aurora and Sharp Green hailed the significance of neon, while fur and embossed fabrics reminded us just how good our stone wash, loose-fit denim was. The chain belt in your closet just might see the light of day again. For inspiration, look to Courrèges and the final collection of the late Virgil Abloh for the most iconic 00’s hip-hop references. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/ab01f47e-33d8-40c7-b2a4-fc080efe1c4a/Screenshot+2022-01-23+at+4.10.45+pm.png MW FALL / WINTER 2022 - GORPED UP JAWNZ Water-repellant enthusiasts are given the go to continue their field day into FW22 with the elongation of their romance with nature—not actually nature, but the aesthetic. Luxe fabrics, technical accessories (i.e., the birth of the DSquared2 hiker), and pockets galore adorn the modern male adventurer on his quest to Soho House. Key colour Exuberance in high-shine puffers gives a new kick of life to the well-loved straps, gilets, and anoraks we’re now accepting as our malecore norm. A-COLD-WALL delivers excellence to our explorer subculture, but look to Kenzo for Nigo’s debut streetwear take, making gorp playful again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/d298f06f-fa0c-4050-8f69-2ad34464894b/Screenshot+2022-01-23+at+4.16.48+pm.png MW FALL / WINTER 2022 - SHOCK JOCKS To whom we appreciate. Reigning in as a key silhouette of the season and the forerunner of the jock aesthetic is the varsity jacket, inspiring smart tailoring and the importance of the sweater vest for A+ content. The cardigan, football jersey, and chunky roll neck emerge this season alongside a new pairing emphasis with the gender-bending Mary Jane and square-toed boot. Key earthy brown colors Shitake and Coriander blend with Capulet Olive and Rosin in smart check patterns across blazers and co-ord sets. Check out R13 and Moschino for academic slogans, but Dior Homme Pre-fall for a classic, chunky knit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/7e0e9eb5-13a5-4080-99bd-5e9190882e95/Screenshot+2022-01-23+at+4.24.38+pm.png MW FALL / WINTER 2022 - AWOL’IN OUT Classicism is now rooted in the history-defying tailoring of the militaristic silhouette. This season, the bomber is the chosen shape of reconstruction, emerging as a core pairing across collections and in street style. Smart cargos are seen in classic tans Shifting Sand and Almond Buff, paired nodingly with the military boot. Look to the overcoats at Hermès and Balmain for a regal military adaptation, but stick to Cavalli for classic utility. https://bridgetknowles.com/spring-summer-2022 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/2287345e-1d38-4df3-94ac-1d57f8786e78/Screenshot+2021-12-29+at+6.52.28+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - DRENCHED IN DOPAMINE Powerful hues drench essential wardrobes as fashion looks towards a bold type to enter the newest era of trend. Balanced by tonal styling and color-blocking, dopamine dressing reignites statement fashion with the subtle figure of the minimalist movement. Mood elevating hues Flame Orange, Kelly Green, and Electric Purple energize voluminous puff sleeves, ruffles, and frills. Versace, Carolina Herrera, and MSGM dominate an elated sense of hope and happiness, exploding into SS22. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/ed47c609-50c1-4852-a860-651944995258/Screenshot+2021-12-29+at+6.48.33+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - BARE IT ALL Barely-there dressing becomes all the rage as mesh, sheer, and 90s-inspired cut-outs complement daring slits and visible underwear. Underwear becomes outerwear, a risky trend controlled by Ket Set and Blanc de Blanc. Look to corsets, sheer midi dresses, and micro mini skirts to incorporate risk where you can. Nensi Dojaka and KNWLS provide the newest voices paving the way for the revolutionary fashion trend sweeping the world, followed closely by key fashion alumni Rejina Pyo. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/2fda3d31-e811-46a5-87c2-5fb1800d2e3a/Screenshot+2021-12-29+at+6.46.10+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - THE NOUGHTIES The revivalist sensation onset by the continued bohemian adoption redirects itself towards the 2000s for a Y2K punch. Rhinestone and butterfly embellishments, halterneck tops, and exposed underwear in key colors Wild Rose, Violet, and Faded Denim throw us back to a time of pop glamour and exposed midriffs. Look to Bluemarine and Chanel as a guide for 2000s perfection. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/2643d8fc-a500-422e-825b-d6328c4fc877/Screenshot+2021-12-29+at+4.02.18+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - PSYCHADELIA A continued revival of 1960s and 1970s fashion reigns as a permanent nostalgic attitude driven by new fashion voices. Mini shift dresses, knee high boots, and essentials adorned in crochet and headscarves create a radical mood of vintage chic. Orchid Bloom and Hazel complement Russett Orange in a dreamlike craving for trippy tones. Anna Sui and Courreges continue to inform this trend with textbook looks, feeding a generation and lamenting the hippy revival. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/4ef20d38-0afe-4f8a-9c86-176febcef930/Screenshot+2021-12-29+at+7.14.03+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - LUSH MINIMALIST Minimalism grasps onto the newfound lounger consumer with a continuation of cozy knitted sets and refined silhouettes to counterbalance the season’s maximalist attitude. Texture is paramount, as silk pajamas and soft-spun knits elevate a stay-at-home look to the outdoors. STAUD and N21 perfect what it is to be the newest creature of comfort. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/1da59b51-142f-4429-af31-483b6452e85e/Screenshot+2021-12-29+at+6.41.03+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - BON VOYAGE Nautic inspiration meets vacation-ready attitudes with a return to Breton striped, netted fabric and a focus on swimwear. Highly anticipated vacations are imagined in key colors: Marina, Turquoise, and Buttercup, notably seen in the reintroduction of the swim coverup. Sailor knot blouses and collars remain key statement details. Rixo and Supriya Lee dominate the beachside mood on the runway. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/e70d24fc-1efe-4640-8b53-5ce4433f48b6/Screenshot+2021-12-29+at+7.17.10+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - ULTIMATE FEMME The strongest underlying trend that sets the tone for this season is credited to a femme baseline of bold pink coloring, maximalist ruffles, and dreamlike volume. Girlish silhouettes adorned in layering float in Powder Pink and Bold Fuchsia. Simone Rocha reigns as a noted master of the femme look, followed closely by the ladylike visions of Erdem and Giambattista Valli. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/ee34cb20-dae0-4991-9634-9138f38cd070/Screenshot+2021-12-29+at+4.16.24+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - GLITZ AND GLAM Honoring the return to party culture is the celebratory core dressing reference. Everything sparkles and shines as new occasionwear signals a call for opulence drenched in Champagne Beige, Rich Gold, and Dewberry. Embellishments are seen in pearls, puff sleeves, and asymmetric necklines. Loewe, Miu Miu, and Versace invite you to party with them in the new era of celebratory living. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/7cc7dbec-7cef-43e1-a9ed-e7726f522014/Screenshot+2021-12-29+at+7.19.13+pm.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - PREP LESSON A notable succession trend, prep appeal dominates the runway with updated loafers, collegiate crests, and pleated mini skirts to dictate the schoolboy appeal as an essential. Key colors Jade Lime and Clove provide strong bases for a suit set. Lacoste and Dior champion the school vest and pleat, while Tanya Taylor and Coach cement the importance of the well-loved check. https://bridgetknowles.com/fall-winter-2021 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/da43e7d2-c8d5-401b-b1bb-7c792bd67e40/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+11.37.11+am.png MW FALL / WINTER 2021 - GORPCORE Coined as a hybrid of “good ol’ raisins and peanuts” and technical gear, Gorpcore has exploded into menswear fashion and defined itself as an evolutionary essential. A call to the outdoors inspires an emphasis on function, utility fabric, and tactical layering in earth tone key colors such as Green Olive, Lily White, and Laurel Wreath. Hiker’s boots, anoraks, and cargo pants are fitted with taped seams, drawstring waists, and velcro tabs to create breathable looks that possess enough adversity to complement the elements yet remain refined. Look to A-COLD-WALL and Reese Cooper for a lesson in joining a myriad of outdoor-inspired gear that has enough tech to satisfy the savviest of fashion followers and outdoor explorers alike. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/f26011e4-9f2a-4dde-8fa8-69723a51cade/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+12.16.34+pm.png MW FALL / WINTER 2021 - DUVET DRESSING Comfort has non-surprisingly prevailed as an essential to this season, adopting a voluminous take on all-enveloping, cocooning silhouettes that are transitional for an indoor/outdoor lifestyle. Soft, tactile fabrics seen last season reemerge with bold colors to liven up a neutral loungewear aesthetic. Slipper boots, Borg bucket hats, and oversized puffers are paired with loose fit trousers and knitted sets adorned with quilted cashmere and nylon for a dreamy appeal. Key colors Haute Red, Russet, and Caviar drive the cozy look notably seen at Louis Vuitton and Fendi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/433e423b-f515-408f-a491-38bba41ce158/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+11.57.51+am.png MW FALL / WINTER 2021 - SKATER BOY A grunge revival of skate culture has emerged cross-industry with influence seen worldwide, notably coined by Virgil Abloh’s investment in the budding skate scene in Accra, Ghana. The reemergence of skater attitude has complemented a sustained interest in the present retro aesthetic, though massively drawing inspiration from a steezy, nostalgic-like take on easy tailoring and loose fits. Oversized tees, skate trousers, and loose flannels are paired with trainers for a breezy attitude that satisfies urban appeal. Maison Mihara Yasuhiro channels the perfect skate aesthetic for a generational movement towards not giving a f*ck again. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/8344268b-4518-461a-8c8a-0b03a06d90ee/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+12.19.42+pm.png MW FALL / WINTER 2021 - RETRO RENAISSANCE The kitsch of the 1970s continues to play out across the runway as men’s trends backtrack from a relationship with 1990s appeal to welcome kick flares and sweater vests in lush earth and jewel tones of Jungle Green, Mustang and Acacia. Collar shirts, bombers, and shearling covered in paisley and geometrics create the modern retro appeal driven by the nostalgia of an era of radical attitude. Casablanca and Etro dictate the draw of the 1970s appeal, consuming the forefront imagination of this generation’s most iconic men. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/d9c99b48-b5d9-41c7-900e-51c8308d62e6/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+12.12.32+pm.png MW FALL / WINTER 2021 - THE QUARTERBACK The appeal of athleisure has matured into a prepleisure attitude this season as inspiration is pulled from collegiate graphics and bold, primary color-blocking. The varsity jacket remains a core look that marries the space between sporty and smart and creates the prep man. Haute Red, Primrose Yellow, and Federal Blue resonate with clean cable knit cottons, sweater vests, and sporty striping. Burberry and Isabel Marant embody the prep attitude, creating smart, casual looks that transcend the athletic aesthetic into a modern aptitude for collegiate trends. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/74822ff7-0df8-4f2a-ad35-dbf9f4922758/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+12.22.24+pm.png MW FALL / WINTER 2021 - OUT OF OFFICE Workwear stories are continuing to transcend the normal narrative of stay-at-home life into hybrid work from home aesthetics that suit the modern day work environment. The rigidity of pre-pandemic signifiers has transformed into a more mature desire for premium knit sets and loose fit co-ords that provide luxe alternatives to a comfort-driven approach in work life. Unstructured blazers, silk jersey trousers, and ribbed cuffs seen in key colors Winter White and Gull create a tonal mood of optimism and safety. Fashion alumni Issey Miyake and Fendi create soft, spacial silhouettes for the urban work atmosphere. https://bridgetknowles.com/menstrendsinsights daily 0.75 2025-08-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/9c95b42d-781d-4ed0-a311-01c53e620822/Screenshot+2025-08-10+at+10.39.29%E2%80%AFAM.png Men's Runway Insights - SPRING / SUMMER 2026 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/c298f660-2dea-4d62-a3b3-c0070caef620/Screenshot+2024-07-25+at+12.14.56%E2%80%AFPM.png Men's Runway Insights - SPRING / SUMMER 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/d1e765b5-9314-489c-ab03-7ee795639619/Screenshot+2023-11-08+134838.png Men's Runway Insights - SPRING / SUMMER 2024 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/0664d302-ede4-4ef1-acb0-91e726544be7/00012-dior-spring-2023-menswear-credit-gorunway.jpg_%281920%C3%972880%29_-_2022-08-12_13.50.01.png Men's Runway Insights - SPRING / SUMMER 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/20c22d83-f95b-490a-b015-d7d9e519dd0e/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+12.40.18+pm.png Men's Runway Insights - SPRING / SUMMER 2022 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/884f9d08-ee49-49a4-a30a-5c1a72565b4a/Screenshot+2025-02-18+at+3.01.58%E2%80%AFPM.png Men's Runway Insights - FALL / WINTER 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/f6227b5b-7f0a-4c5e-bc12-f44e14477488/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.08.18%E2%80%AFPM.png Men's Runway Insights - FALL / WINTER 2024 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/cbf2fea7-53b2-4856-ab45-5b0d1ff6d3ac/3159f5e7-aa0d-455f-8813-15c3e6a39251.jpg Men's Runway Insights - FALL / WINTER 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/b67532dc-44ff-442d-82dc-b8554bf3ff73/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+12.50.45+pm.png Men's Runway Insights - FALL / WINTER 2022 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/afbd7eac-3079-4214-9735-153fb2cd6376/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+11.57.33+am.png Men's Runway Insights - FALL / WINTER 2021 https://bridgetknowles.com/mw-spring-summer-2022 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/579112ad-34cd-4f51-b142-e70fbca719fd/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+5.19.02+pm.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - MAXIMALIST MOVEMENT A craving for dopamine dressing inspires a maximalist approach to statement fashion tailored sharply and drenched with embellishment. Key colors Sharp Green, Lupine, and Haute Red are seen in flares, split-hem trousers, and boxy, printed shirts. Dior Homme, Rick Owens, and Etro lead the call for celebration, requiring a reinforced importance of optimism in resistance to a period of neutrality. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/52dd5b21-884d-44db-87b1-7344a00cf613/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+5.24.46+pm.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - FUNCTIONAL FIT The working wardrobe is again reimagined softly, with a continued focus on relaxed fits and breezy fabrics. What is now defined as a wardrobe essential, the unstructured suit is updated with stretch knits and complemented by cotton blend co-ords grounded in function. Key colors Winter White and Bone Brown retain simplistic sets, while Orchid Hush updates the silhouette for a soft spring appeal. Linen and hemp crowd soft layers, mixing textures enough to create a sporty yet refined appeal. On the runway, Giorgio Armani and Hermes provide the best new basics for a work-at-home luxe lifestyle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/36c22136-0621-43f6-8310-a90da1749526/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+5.56.35+pm.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - HEAVY ON HOLIDAY With a lift on restrictions and an overwhelming wave of optimism encouraging a return to the sea, this season’s beach-ready co-ords and textured fabrics satisfy the overriding demand for a long holiday. Tie-dye and floral prints splash onto Bermuda shorts, slouchy hoodies, and vests tailored for summer days drenched in Violet Tulle, Mellow Green, and Super Lemon. Look to Fendi, Paul Smith, and MSGM for top getaway looks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/2da98471-4563-4f46-9602-295012708ae9/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+5.59.32+pm.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - ATHLETE ESSENTIALS Workouts blend workwear, blurring the line between casual clothing and technical use. Tracksuits are paired with oversized hoodies, gilets, and mesh accents in Estate Blue, Omphalodes, and Bright White. Louis Vuitton chooses a maximalist approach to the sport like appeal, while Casablanca pairs down the trend with post-workout soft utility. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/e8db470c-4fb2-4d45-943d-2f32642e1a82/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+5.52.03+pm.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - OUTDOOR EXPLORER Gorpcore continues to transition into this season’s inspiration of outdoor activity, placing an emphasis on functional fabric and technical accessories. Utility ranges from waterproof and fleece seen in anoraks, nylon shorts and overshoots fitted cross-chest. Camoflouge and checks are translated in key colors: Sagebrush Green, Rubber, and the season-bending Caviar. Reese Cooper and Undercover show the best tactical looks for a season reliant on the outdoors. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/592d2f61-571f-41fb-9287-11778f08fbf5/Screenshot+2021-12-30+at+5.49.21+pm.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2022 - PRETTY IN PUNK In hand with freedom is rebellion, notably illustrated in this season’s exodus to punk. An emphasis on leather complements expressionist signals of rule-breaking: facial piercings, dark motifs, and technical design. Look to Rick Owens and Burberry for a lesson in rebuking the norm and opting for grunge. https://bridgetknowles.com/ww-fall-winter-2021 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/99c0416b-c547-425b-abcb-b49c7521c8a7/Screenshot+2021-12-31+at+1.48.23+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2021 - COSY COCOON A growing interest in security and warmth gave rise to the cocooning trend of duvet dressing, an all-encompassing aesthetic prioritizing layering and coverage. Every facet is oversized: beanies and balaclavas to blanket coats, puffers, and moon-boot shoes. Ottolinger showcased a dreamy Deep Lichen translation of the trench, while STAUD reinvented the puffer by showcasing a dreamy, quilted take on getting cozy in key color Toasted Almond. The bigger, the better. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/3e65a1ef-e848-45d6-8732-6187af39dd0d/Screenshot+2021-12-31+at+2.02.59+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2021 - CLASS LOOK Popularised by the late 1980s and inspired by cult noughties television that Gen-z is in the process of reviving, this season’s preppy aesthetic champions the mini skirt set, school loafers, and varsity appliqué signalers. Key colours Peacoat and Burgundy drown this season’s focus on berets, brogues, pleats and houndstooth branding. Look to Vivienne Westwood and Alice + Olivia to teach a perfect lesson in embodying a preppy school girl look. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/39506d3b-18c6-4a04-a7ac-8d6f23bd03d9/Screenshot+2021-12-31+at+1.45.34+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2021 - OUT TONIGHT An ending to an era of lockdown calls for an era of partying and excess. An atmosphere drenched in Rich Gold, Silver, Copper, and Hot Pink reinstalls the importance of a maximalist attitude, notably inspired by feather trims, volume sleeves, gem embellishments, and metallic notes. Molly Goddard, Givenchy, and Versace debut the importance of superimposing celebration over mediocrity. Life’s too short to be boring anymore. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/f8037c8b-398e-4013-9955-0615db7a0f6e/Screenshot+2021-12-31+at+1.57.59+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2021 - LUXE LOUNGER Softcore has birthed and championed the ermergence of the seasoned luxe lounger, a central theme of cushy moods and textured aesthetics. At its core, knitwear co-ords, midi dresses, and newly trending sartorial Pj sets bridge the gap between outerwear and homecore backed by lush key colors Cream Pink, Winter White, and Beige. Look to Salvatore Ferragamo and Acne Studios for textbook clinical knit sets. Call on Markarian for a classic, lavish sleepwear set that will make your dreams come true. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/e77d7113-accd-4c12-9189-f72d31cc2c74/Screenshot+2021-12-31+at+1.42.31+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2021 - YOUR MAJESTY A newfound interest in opulence amplifies the core of a palatial aesthetic adorned with royal references and stately silhouettes. The Regency period processes into this season with an emphasis on voluminous skirts, jewel-dripping headsets, and bead detailing. Sara Wong and Marni are at the forefront of the new Victorian era. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/b1e32d21-c60c-4cb3-af01-8fe04aeda36c/Screenshot+2021-12-31+at+2.06.13+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2021 - CLASSIC CAPSULE The perfect counterbalance to the maximalist approach that has threaded into this season is a return to basics and the generational love for simplicity. Pared-back detailing and streamlined silhouettes of classic key colors Winter White and Caviar continue to inspire capsule wardrobes and counteract social movements with timeless reliability. Look to N21 and Victoria Beckham for forever pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/9d9bba40-0561-4c50-aa19-1e9f43c466fb/Screenshot+2021-12-31+at+1.40.40+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2021 - BARELY THERE Risk is all the rage. We are talking skin on skin, side of skin, and an extra dosage of skin. Leather and sheer absolutely adorn corset waist belts, thigh-high boots, and cut-out mini dresses that are here to bare it all. The statement harness becomes a key element to hook the eye of the beholder, exposing undergarments, open backs, and chainlink closures. GCDS and Courrèges are key contributors to an induced sex appeal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/0604c0ff-e7c2-4f72-93ea-e40ff41c3ecd/Screenshot+2021-12-31+at+2.00.14+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2021 - RETROCORE References from the 1960s and 1970s eras of disco-oriented nostalgia continue to reign into the season, characterized by grounding earth tones Rust, Sunflower, and Faded Denim. The draw of psychedelia creates an escapist paradise that channels the transcendence of an old-age wearer into an outlet for modern expression. Key visuals include tonal co-ords, flares, puff-sleeve mini dresses, and headscarves. Wool and metallics counterbalance florals and paisley, creating an optic, groovy attitude. Anna Sui and Vivetta dominate the mini shift, while Prada perfects retro print. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/d265a888-babc-451a-9a5b-b1155ebe0f09/Screenshot+2021-12-31+at+2.09.05+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2021 - REBEL REBEL A wave of rebellion translates itself onto the scene via an excess of leather, all-black looks, and societal indifference. Modern day punk girls have grasped control of the basics of fashion, making leather trousers and blazers staple items for the average wearer. Simone Rocha and 16Arlington, alumni of the pretty girl with an edge scene, harness the irresistible mood of the moment with the duality of feminine aura. https://bridgetknowles.com/ww-fall-winter-2022 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/8d1b2298-0a96-41b6-b70d-5dcfa5c7002a/Screenshot+2022-03-11+at+2.02.45+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2022 - FUTURE TRIPPING Good enough to get Elon Musk shaking, space influence is the newcomer on the SS22 runway, drawing inspiration from a boundary-breaking attitude to softly launch a new era of fashion. Power shoulders, digital assets, and futuristic metallics demanded room and attention. Look to Ottolinger for the space age pioneering uniform or consider the importance of challenging ideological behavior for future resolve with Balenciaga’s statement. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/7f21affc-716f-4331-8477-67cce6ec60d3/Screenshot+2022-03-11+at+2.27.50+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2022 - FLUFFING PROBLEMS Duvet dressing evolved into an all-over appeal for touch and texture. Head-to-toe faux fur and feather accents were incorporated into outerwear in Barbie Pink, Pale Yellow, and tonal Dahlia. Acne Studios’ oversized padded coat, Marco Rambaldi’s luxe teddy lounge set, and Chet Lo’s spiky attitude at Fashion East dominated runways and demanded we look and possibly touch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/4e75800a-65ff-45ea-aea3-f82b8f2e7ca9/Screenshot+2022-03-11+at+2.44.29+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2022 - EXCESS OF ELEGANCE A hyped up eleganza saw the emergence of frothy tulles, dramatic sequins, and voluminous skirts, calling for a party season. Dopamine colors transitioned into this theme for the FW22 season, including key colors High Risk Red, Violet Tulle, and Fuchsia. Valentino’s new patented Pantone “Pink PP” drenched Paris, while Gucci and Halpern showcased go-to celebratory looks for the overtly feminine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/9bb73ad2-ddba-40a6-94c3-06043c1140de/Screenshot+2022-03-11+at+2.09.51+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2022 - MY HOT GOTH GIRLFRIEND Ubiquitous with the overwhelming wave of blacks and leather evolving into our social spheres is the championing of every teen’s deepest desire: the hot goth girlfriend. Thanking the Kardashians for reminding us how truly great bands Blink-182 and Paramore are, the grunge narrative has sustained itself into FW22 by securing its sexy, dark, anarchistic attitude. The key color is most certainly black. Aniye By Fall and Coach show us the hot goth girl you want, but no one can have. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/5193e2dd-66e2-45a5-8575-b763d2a1c652/Screenshot+2022-03-11+at+2.31.38+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2022 - TITS OUT I cannot further emphasize the absolute grip barely-there dressing has on us. The body reveal theme continues to play out across the runway as established, sex-centric stars Nensi Dojaka, Poster Girl, and Coperni gave a masterclass in cut-out sensuality. All hail the corset this season, seen played out in a majority of key colors, though notably Carmine Rose at Versace and the must have Jet Black. It would be wrong not to mention our newcomer queen Julia Fox’s LaQuan opener, featuring an exposed chest and post-Kanye-breakup glow. Versace’s step-by-step guide to embracing the zeitgeist is a great how-to, but look to Kim Shui, Christopher Kane, and David Koma for the best translations of the naked silhouette. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/f50e7bdc-9cbb-4c87-982c-8a4bd01bef0c/Screenshot+2022-03-11+at+2.47.13+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2022 - NON TOXIC MASCULINITY A step towards androgyny embraced the convergence of gender across this season’s runway, celebrating the duality of masculinity and femininity across the runway. Pared-back, structured looks with contemporary fabrics formed the backbone of the androgynous aesthetic notably seen at Simone Rocha and Daniel w. Fletcher in key color Caviar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/7fe52480-c299-4ad8-a0c8-1760b12a4762/Screenshot+2022-03-11+at+2.19.50+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2022 - GORLS GO GORP The great outdoors transitions from menswear into womenswear foresight, showcasing super-sized puffers, padded fabrics, and the newly loved balaclava. Weatherproof outwear extended further than the adoption of Arc’teryx as directional trends cemented a leisurely anchoring in an alpine, après-ski aesthetic. Blazing Orange proved itself the most notable color across gorpcore designs seen at Roksanda, Max Mara, and a lustful Dhruv Kapoor. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/6b3dfd22-6e24-4140-b162-1f2114a6057f/Screenshot+2022-03-11+at+2.35.38+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2022 - HOMEROOM LINK UP Paris opted for math second period this season, riffing off the loved appeal of school uniforms and varsity graphics. If there’s one thing that has done its rounds in the last few months, it’s the Miu Miu mini. Dark Greys and Daffodil yellows colored prep’s heroes: the rugby polo, pleated mini skirt, and oversized blazer. Check out Louis Vuitton and the entirety of the Miu Miu show for some class. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/40a7cefe-00df-49c3-b2b8-34051bd32adc/Screenshot+2022-03-11+at+2.41.33+pm.png WW FALL / WINTER 2022 - IT’S BRITNEY BITCH A “hit me baby one more time” redux continues to dominate the runway with a direct channeling of beloved cargo pants, distressed denim, and micro minis. The tank top, a new pull from our 00’s artillery, was the basic hero piece at Prada. Break out your Ed Hardy and Juicy Couture because the Millennium movement is here to stay with Gen Z establishing Blumarine, Off-White, and 16Arlington’s runway silhouettes as the leading charge of the cemented here and now. https://bridgetknowles.com/ww-spring-2023 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/0666192d-4aa0-4302-af27-151183288547/Screenshot+2024-03-02+at+2.13.36%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - TROPICAL BUT TOPICAL Ubiquitous with the onset of the spring season is the ever-present influx of tropical prints, vivacious color palettes, and transcendent, billowing fabric shapes. Religious to Spring idealism is the explosion of key colors Candy Pink and Knockout Pink seen at Brandon Maxwell, each swimming in liquid pools of palm tree bliss. Impose spring escapism with strappy heels, tiered hems, and halter necklines whose silhouettes confirm the residency of vacationwear season-long. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/37a9d265-a841-43b6-9f1d-2c6049060da8/00020-givenchy-resort-2023-credit-brand.jpg_%281600%C3%972400%29_-_2022-08-12_13.08.48.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - TUMBLR GIRLS Gothic genius pours into the vampish souls of the modern day cool girl aesthetic. Ripe with idolization for the discrete, coveted persona embodied by grunge naturalists Patti Smith, Winona Rider, Courtney Love, or Chloe Sevigny, the aesthetic thrives in fetish core silhouettes, maxi dresses, and leather classics. Key colours Caviar and Jet Black never take themselves too seriously, finding homes in sheer lace, velveted soft silhouettes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/a6dff667-e4cf-43e3-a132-d6cb9c1b44e1/00009-alessandra-rich-ressort-2023-credit-marco-imperatore.jpg_%281600%C3%972400%29_-_2022-08-12_12.32.54.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - ROMANTICISM REDUX Hyperfemininity is expectedly ablaze in spring fashion. Cascading ruffles and contemporary Victorian silhouettes charmingly drape in pastels and key color, Sunflower Yellow. Alessandra Rich's 80s-infused romanticism strikes the hearts of new-age romantics, while Philosophy displays classic sentimentalism. Seek frills, ruching, and girlish trims as integral adornments. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/1aed5f34-5725-41fa-b7e3-59b595be025e/00001-diesel-resort-2023-credit-brand.jpg_%281600%C3%972400%29_-_2022-08-12_13.01.20.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - DEFINITELY FROM DEPOP Drowning in baggy, washed jeans and preening in highlighter hues, flashbacks to the butterfly clip days continue possessing the Gen-z zeitgeist. The 00s nostalgia renaissance reigns into this season's translation of classics: handkerchief hems, mini everything and light wash denim, as seen at Y2k enthusiast Diesel's new line. Key Colour Lime Punch leads the charge of the pack, a tone well deserving of Nicole Richie's "that's hot". https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/6b895dd1-41fb-4e5c-9dd2-3249f1277c3e/00035-alessandra-rich-ressort-2023-credit-marco-imperatore.jpg_%281600%C3%972400%29_-_2022-08-12_13.02.53.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - 80s BABIES Metallic hues and tainted love. The 80s permeate contemporary cult praxis, from classic co-ord sets to ostentatious foil effect trousers alive with key colors Silver and Rich Gold. Chanel's rendering of the greedy decade emphasized the importance of colored denim and power shoulders, reinstating maximalist values as the mood of the moment. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/0ff5a39c-bbc0-452e-8536-d3810ef9b73d/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+5.07.57%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - O.D. KICKBACKS Overdosed party season. A riff of maximalist attitude transpires into occasianwear with a loud exuberance. Paco Rabanne's sequins have never shined brighter, and Dior's penchant for lustful ballgowns commands every party hour. Cherry Reds dazzle formal fashion, asserting that opulence is the natural disposition. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/d3d9307c-a702-4dea-8f1d-9f473fa9f2bc/00009-the-elder-statesman-resort-2023-credit-lee-wei-swee.jpg_%281600%C3%972400%29_-_2022-08-12_12.58.42.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - BOHO BLESSED The core classic of Springwear revives new age bohemianism this season with a newfound emphasis on bolder, elevated color combinations. Crochet, wide-tailored trousers, and headband accessories arrive continuously committed to the cause, but it's this spring's interest in the rainbow revival that separates the art from the artist. Look to Rochas, Etro, and budding bohemian Stella McCartney for multi-colored, sunlit iridescence native to boho core. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/5c46f68d-34b3-4e50-be0b-527ca2d22b9c/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+5.05.56%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - PREP TALK Summer school is in session, tweed mini and A-line skirts are all present. A recurring seasonal concept driving the force of smart casual, prep presentations silhouette the scene with co-ord classes in key colors Bubblegum Pink and Amparo Blue. Thom Browne, championing a waspy look, and Dsquared2 teach the basics to perfect prep. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/4c0a7547-92c3-4713-84bd-f8ff82d41359/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+5.10.15%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - DIRECTIONAL DECADE A new narrative introduces itself this spring season after slowly filtering its futuristic pioneering into the latter catwalks. Cutting-edge fashion chooses a biker core, quirky futurism is alien to us, but not its doctrine. Cult-loved viral phenomenon Balenciaga is pivotal in communicating the marriage of ground-breaking design with moto-themed, street-style favorites. Fluid tailoring and leather jackets suit techwear. The new, hyperflux spirit of the time. https://bridgetknowles.com/mw-spring-2023 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/9402c0a2-1083-44fd-8383-bdffe155c914/00022-etudes-mens-spring-2023-credit-gorunway.jpg_%281600%C3%972400%29_-_2022-08-12_13.35.35.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - SEE YOU LATER BOY The real mid-90s reflect an era dominated by casual silhouettes. Oversized cuts, classic graphic or print t-shirts, and technical, tailored trousers ensure durability hand in hand with effortlessness. Lords of Dogtown and connoisseurs of street culture. Inspiration draws from the resurrection of the old age Zephyr attitude that is infiltrating our social medium by virtue of skate brand resurgences such as Stussy, Southern California's surf scene pride and joy, new kids on the scene Aries and Brain Dead, or skate alumni Palace and Supreme. Easy wearing balances vivid key colors: Hibiscus, Cub, and Corydalis. Punky, trash aesthetics tyrannize spring catwalks, most notably at MSGM, Etudes, and JW Anderson. Look to Fendi for a refined, gender-neutral take on this retro style. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/894f0ea3-5bdd-4280-bad7-ff3bbe31b863/00044-kenzo-spring-2023-mens-credit-gorunway.jpg_%281920%C3%972880%29_-_2022-08-12_13.40.25.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - NATURE’S MUSE Nature' narrative has spread rife into the mainstream of menswear norm, a backbone influence filtered ingenuously into every modernist's closet, hiker or not. Spring's resonance with effervescent atmospheres inspires a new influx of interpretation aimed at gardening. Bucket hats, cargos, and puffers remain the hero pieces leading the pack, but a new interest in florals provides a whimsical edge to the aesthetic, allowing a new lightheartedness to replace a gorp core dependence. Key colors Avocado and Silver Cloud create perfect backdrops for newcomers, Misted Yellow and Nightshadow Blue. Loewe's greenery cut the edge of nature-inspired looks, thrusting fashion into a contemporary space engineering form and function with real life nature. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/564e9a0b-f898-4acd-b2c5-4d949b6a3aac/00017-kenzo-spring-2023-mens-credit-gorunway.jpg_%281920%C3%972880%29_-_2022-08-12_13.37.54.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - COLLEGE DROPOUT School life redux is amped up a notch this season, channeling university attitude into classic blazers, slouchy hoodies, and argyle knit jumpers. Show and tell. The varsity jacket, an unsung hero, embodies a top tier amalgamation of varsity graphics and logos, reinterpreted in key colors Estate Blue and Tree Top. Championing the late Virgil Abloh and topping the building blocks of essential prep, look to Louis Vuitton, Kenzo, and quintessential Paul Smith for academic excellence. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/51a9683d-7ec2-42b8-a9d3-22ca7e51a5be/00008-alexander-mcqueen-spring-2023-mens-credit-brand.jpg_%281920%C3%972880%29_-_2022-08-12_13.38.40.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - SUITED AND BOOTED The wave of deconstructed tailoring favoring fluidity over rigidity segues into spring fashion after a seasonal stall on the catwalk. Crisp Moonbeam, shirts, soft Bleached Sand wide-leg trousers, and classic, slim trousers in new key color Pale Aqua create a dreamlike, tonal world superimposing a mix and match of structure and breeziness. Prada continues to possess authority over clean suiting, while Dior Homme and JOEONE's authority over relaxed tailoring adopts a new, spirited take on paired-back ease. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/b89fc8de-0221-4352-a2dd-9ba90c89354e/00010-kidsuper-spring-2023-menswear-credit-gorunway.jpg_%281920%C3%972880%29_-_2022-08-12_13.41.59.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - KIDCORE Playfulness and a flirtation with the emergence of tongue-in-cheek subculture concoct a mesmerizing wave of youthfulness characterized by brightly colored, cartooned motifs. A retrospective of our childhood favorite silhouettes includes graphic t-shirts, basketball shorts, tank tops, and printed sweatshirts rendered in key colors: Bright Lime Green, Pink Lemonade, Blue Bell and Orchid Bloom. Bold boyhood makes a valiant argument for a mood shift towards humor, humility, and innocent independence to run wild with imagination. Louis Vuitton's complete embodiment of adolescence possesses all the fervor needed to inspire any generation tuned in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/3caf58ff-c52d-4f2a-ab84-73c76bf99724/00001-marine-serre-spring-2023-menswear-credit-brand.jpg_%281920%C3%972880%29_-_2022-08-12_13.39.45.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2023 - PREPPED TO PERFORM The romanticization of high-tech function and performance fashion climaxes in a championed form of athletic wear that has translated sportswear back into what it truly is: sportswear. A redux, or perhaps an implied social adoption of an acquired revolutionary undertaking, sportswear core is exactly what it sets out to be. Track tops, football jerseys, technical jackets, and joggers fit for the pitch adorn the streets with sneakers, slip-on slides, and drawstring bags. Nylon and mesh remain expert undertakers of the athletic shape, now displayed in key colors Tomato and Marlin. Givenchy's Patina Green tracksuits take the gold in application, while Dries Van Noten's vests and technical trousers solidify a championing of performance fashion. In it to win it, Bloke Core has gone all out in its vocation to competition, promising sportswear to remain in its true aesthetic as sportswear for a few more seasons, a triumph we can thank the ingenuity of man for. https://bridgetknowles.com/fashionmarketcampaigns daily 0.75 2025-10-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/4ab0a908-ae05-4e17-8ff5-d87d9d4c99d3/IMG_0619.PNG Assistant Styling - 032C SUMMER 2025 Photography STEVEN KLEIN #stevenklein Styling @rasbartram, BAILEY ROSE QUINONES @skullsqwat, Fashion Assistant BRIDGET KNOWLES @_bridgetknowles Fashion director RAS BARTRAM @rasbartram Hair AKKI SHIRAKAWA @akkishirakawa Hair Assistant VANESSA LI @vanessalistyle Makeup KABUKI @kabukinyc Makeup Assistant WILL SULLIVAN @willssassy Nails HONEY @honeynailz Production Company TED & JANE @ted.and.jane Producers CAROLINE GLUCK @carolinegluck, L.E. SEYDEL @leseydel, MARA WEINSTEIN @maraweinstein Graphic designer THEO DONEN @theodonen First Photography Assistant DYLAN GARCIA @dylangarciaaaa Second Photography Assistant ROWAN LEIBRUM @rowanliebrum Third Photography Assistant CLAY CAMPBELL @reverendcambell Photography Intern HUNTER SKETCH @hunter.sketch Production Assistant JOSIE DOMINICK @josiedominick Studio Manager CHRIS MCCOY PA to Steven Klein / Behind the Scenes Content Producer STIVEN LOPEZ @tivenlp Caviar KILO CAVIAR @kilocaviar Special Thanks ADAM CHAITIN-LEFCOURT @firstcallmylawyer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/b30664e5-7431-4ddf-809a-34eb813d7555/IMG_4160.jpeg Assistant Styling - PERFECT MAGAZINE ISSUE 8 PINUP ZINE / LINDA EVANGELISTA @lindaevangelista Photographer @AdianZamiri Fashion editor @kegrand Hair @AkkiShirakawa @ArtPartner Make-up @MarceloGutierrez @BryantArtists Set design @NicholasDesJardins @Streeters Production @FrankjDecaro Production Assistant #FabioUtrilla Production Assistant @JoeHalla Casting @bitton @Establishmentny Photographic assistance #TuckerVanDerWyden Fashion assistance @_BridgetKnowles Set assistance @AndrewRileydesign Linda wears top and necklace, both by @emilioPucci @camillemiceli Writer @paul_flynn Founder @kegrand Art Director @GrahamRounthwaite Publisher @SorayaLamari Editorial Director #MurrayHealy Editor in chief @bryanboy https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/0678ad33-e92d-4b7e-956f-7ee164ca22c6/362fc9d2-7804-4f68-ab0e-0f46ea581ed0.jpg Assistant Styling - ELLE UK MAGAZINE MARCH 2023 Stylist Georgia Medley Styling Assistant Bridget Knowles Photography @lucbraquet Art Direction @zoyakaye Hair @zateeshahairstylist Make Up @sogolmakeup Casting @tmscsy Models @hellalund @thesquadmanagement @bethany_duffy @lindenstaub https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/f6ed35e7-18ea-4fdb-ad67-eb80c5f29d33/61Z8KGCikbL._AC_UF1000%2C1000_QL80_.jpg Assistant Styling - LULA JAPAN MAGAZINE SPRING 2023 Photography @kasia__rucinska Stylist @alisonfloracarmichael, Makeup @post_katt, Hair stylist @harrietbeidleman. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/44307867-e554-458f-aadb-b6dde54eadfd/tmp_OqNUU0_22138f0101b2fab6_GettyImages-1245406380-1.jpg.webp Assistant Styling - MICHAELA COEL VOGUE GALA 2023 / Stylist Georgia Medley https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/62651eb7-72ad-42a5-9b01-516e2935a637/Screenshot+2025-08-11+at+4.20.04%E2%80%AFPM.png Assistant Styling - RASHIDA JONES Vanity Fair Party 2020 / Stylist Brad Goreski https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/225e4e9d-d854-4757-a097-a6bc1f84c6fa/Perfect+7.5+Covers+3GR_07.jpg Assistant Styling - PERFECT MAGAZINE ISSUE 7.5 Photographer @morgan.maher Fashion Director @kegrand Stylist @jordannkelsey Art Direction @farrowlondon Associate Art Director @grahamrounthwaite Publisher @sorayalamari Editorial Director murrayhealy Casting Director @itboygregk Writer @paul_flynn Hair @kevinryanhair Make-up @hungvanngo Set design @_coopervasquez_ Production @maraweinstein Production coordinator @tydemauro Photographic assistance @derecpatrick Fashion assistance @_bridgetknowles Hair assistance @gingerleighryan Make-up assistance @jianlumakeup Set assistance @aureliacotton, @nancyloeber, Eherd Person Production assistance @chanceybridges Location representative @theavocadoes Location managing director @vltproductions Location administrative coordinator @trevortatham And thanks to @britreece https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/575de85c-0554-4f66-88df-dd1b060feb0b/venus-1731595595689.jpg Assistant Styling - CULTURED MAGAZINE WINTER 2024 https://www.culturedmag.com/article/2024/11/18/venus-williams-titus-kaphar-tennis-art-conversation Creative Direction Marcos Fecchino Hair Ro Morgan Makeup Karina Milan Nails Mo Qin Production Management Jacob Gottlieb Digital Tech Ryan Liu Photography Assistance Jack Belli Styling Assistance Bridget Knowles Production Assistance Abe Friedman and Paloma Baygual Nespatti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/8f5f6309-8e53-4713-9eb9-73590e1fbf7c/SnapInsta.to_561830869_18337024015228439_8600143943051353251_n.jpg Assistant Styling - QUENLINK BLACKWELL GREATEST MAG, GREATEST 10, FALL 2025 Photographed by @ryleypaskal
Styling and Art Direction by @skullsqwat
Written by @bizsherbert
Videographer: @caobingdongmani
Hair: @viphair_ashanti
Makeup: @loftjet at @ForwardArtists using Laneige
Digitech: Daniel Kim
Photo Assistants: Brett Childs, @mitchdao.photos
Stylist Assistant: @_bridgetknowles Editor-in-Chief: @dianeabapo
Creative Director: @danielsumarna
Design Direction: @larissakasper @rosarioflorio https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/f119f0d5-069b-4935-b402-ce36cf4b0632/OXYGEN_17.jpg Assistant Styling - NASTY MAGAZINE SPRING 2023 Photography: @_aklaudija⁠, Styling: @anamilenkovic_⁠, Makeup: @mariatoniolomakeup⁠, Hair: @kostrukhair⁠, Photo Assistant: @_______petar⁠, Model: Belle at @premiermodels⁠. Full story on www.nastymagazine.com⁠ https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/9d669a7b-b984-4176-b69f-15dbd5bf8a92/2022-06-01_Farfetch_PrivateClient_Shot07_0035_RGB_RGB_72.jpg Assistant Styling - FARFETCH WINTER 2023 Creative Director: Yannis Henrion, Art Director: Younji Ku, Photographer: Ian Kenneth Bird, WW Editor: Celenie Seidel, MW Editor: Luke Raymond, HMUA: Maarit Niemela, Model: Tara Halliwell https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/84528033-fe50-4c8c-bb07-7e31d0cfb750/golda-rosheuvel-talks-all-things-queen-charlotte-in-the-v0-xok6gzdocema1.jpg Assistant Styling - BUST MAGAZINE SPRING 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/35c74f9c-9d0c-4ec9-9874-50709e743658/Screenshot+2025-08-11+at+4.19.55%E2%80%AFPM.png Assistant Styling - MAYA JAMA GQ MAN OF THE YEAR AWARDS 2022 / Stylist Georgia Medley https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/08bf5520-545f-450c-8324-4a3399f5c813/Screenshot+2025-08-11+at+4.20.19%E2%80%AFPM.png Assistant Styling - SARAH HYLAND Screen Actor’s Guild (SAG) Awards 2020 / Stylist Brad Goreski https://bridgetknowles.com/mw-fall-winter-2023 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/589cdc51-3495-4df9-aada-11b8d36d452e/highxtar-jordanluca-fw23-mfw-2-683x1024.jpg MW FALL / WINTER 2023 - SARTORIAL PSYCHO A season replete with toned down codes and purity of craft marked a turning point in the callisthenics of recent seasons. The contemporary man is now allowed to accept his white-collar calling. Picture Patrick Bates, but if his clothes reflect his mind, Subverted tailoring redacted an era of splendor, creating a complimentary relationship between mindfulness and minimalism that only Jordanluca, Martine Rose, and Prada could propose. The key shape focus remained on the tailored trouser. Formalities of businesswear were a reimagined reverie, notably at Nahmias, where classic tailoring was outfitted in key color Digital Lavender. Businesswear bent proportions, elegancy, and color to empower the modern man’s classic form under the guise of suitable attire. Utterly insane, certainly paradoxical, but poignantly perfect. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/60957eed-a204-491f-a424-cf2fe20a3ad7/39169228-388e-457a-9f8f-b26537bc21fd.jpg MW FALL / WINTER 2023 - SHEER PERSISTANCE A skin-baring phenomenon dominating women’s catwalk for the last 4 seasons has gracefully charmed its way into the men’s scene, a la Boudoir Man. Masculinity is propositioned by elegance and delicacy, a historic juxtaposition steadily losing its grip on the zeitgeist. Who is the modern man? He’s Robert Pattinson in a skirt—a movement that requires no explanation. Boasting a 2.5% runway share is the use of sheer, gathered, tucked, low-cut, billowing, and draped. A newfound momentum for extravagant high necks and high waists was effortlessly achieved at Saint Laurent's return to the runway. Fluidity is the new focal point, and genderlessness has cemented its year-round seat at the table. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/47a9fb1a-e862-4499-bc8f-06cf31f85549/230b502e-08a1-415b-a244-61242f901fc7.jpg MW FALL / WINTER 2023 - PRECIOUS YOUTH Demanding a small, subsequent focus of attention is the influx of the grown-down grown-up that is clawing, begging, and screaming for the freedom of youth. Or simply, some silliness. Dandy delinquents skipped about between mature waves of gender fluidity and a defining era of house DNA. They peeped their heads right on through and said, “what’s up.” For the season as a whole, innocence was a breath of fresh air, as were oversized shorts and kitschy patterns in key colors, Galactic Cobalt and Apricot Crush, which kept things light. LOEWE and Lazoscmidl showcased the best zest for the tone. Only for big boys, though, not little kids. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/366cb28e-fe3e-4651-b104-65596aaca468/4d4f824d-2f4c-493c-938c-5ae93ffc95f3.jpg MW FALL / WINTER 2023 - FUTURE REDUCTION The awe economy has run its course in fashion, exasperating colors and attitudes to wrench out every drip of dopamine lingering in the post-pandemic world. Exhausting. AW23 chose to read the room, taking a note from Jaden Smith to talk about, like, the economic state of the world right now. The tone? Everyone should relax a bit. Pair it back. Reduce. JW Anderson, the current generational leader of social cues, fulfilled this in earnest, quoting that “we’re heading into a season of reduction.” Less, however, still had its weightiness and left room for a solemn, surrealist cue to keep things interesting, as seen best at YOOYOUNGMI and LOEWE. Tomatoes, pillows, frogs, and metallic orbs all on fresh canvases of clean, basic tailoring piggyback the progress of subversion in the fundamental. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/617d00b4-e11f-4582-95ee-a7fe6e40828a/069cd99f-9bf4-4b25-aaf6-3f51e010c50b.jpg MW FALL / WINTER 2023 - OLD-TIMEY CHARM Nothing says zeitgeist like a bit of retro contemplation and a lot of playful exploration. The new-season adventurer, adorned in key earth tones Sage Leaf and Astro Dust, explored the present with stolen valour from old-fashioned 1930’s archetypes. Where to next? Aviator caps and jackets—that’s where. Etro and Givenchy coined the budding Future Terrain trend that applies old-fashioned charm to a futuristic shape that’s normally off-limits. Much like you at your most recent therapy session, at first glance it’s questionable, but give it a few seconds and you can see it's grounded. Bluemarble and Dries Van Noten do it best in action. Epitomized travel classics. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/3173ecc8-64df-40e6-a8a8-263d9abf7d6a/2006c1b9-c75c-4653-b8dd-87b6912c42c3.jpg MW FALL / WINTER 2023 - BABE, WAKE UP, HOUSE CODES ARE BACK The most anticipated moment of the AW23 superimposed the collection of fledgling creative director Daniel Lee at Burberry as a “hold your breath” moment in the industry. Reduction, subversion, and gender fluidity had adapted to a new consumer demanding resilience in the face of uncertainty. Tasked with reigning in consumer confidence, brands had to exude stability and eschew frivolity to retain relevance. All this while still creating a moment. To do so, house style codes were at the forefront of this season’s identity. It was back to roots and historic influence, as seen at Paul Smith, Kenzo, and Burberry, each of which presented shows that were, simply put, quintessential. Brand DNA transcended theme in tandem with global tension, confirming the necessity of a strong foundation for success. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/36094583-77e1-491d-aaec-fa331ec8b46e/52d67414-7f29-4d5b-9173-3de71de7cc74.jpg MW FALL / WINTER 2023 - RAVE NEW WORLD Raves were out of the grave in this season’s best tongue-in-cheek trend. Clubwear riffed off the Boudoir Man and championed a 90’s subculture rooted in free party, free movement, and free will. The last natural youth culture movement and the last raw social signal of hedonism. A nostalgia for freaks and geeks on the runway restored a party-culture fantasy at the intersection of rave and romance. Eclectic styling at Acne Studios, supersized fluffy knits, Eckhaus Latta’s sheer crop top, and baggy denim at Isabel Marant reiterated a lost codependency on masculinity. Grungy, core evening wear used rave as a complimentary channel to trivialize the conversation of gender in an age of escapist therapy. https://bridgetknowles.com/mw-fall-winter-2023-1 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/c3e0f2a3-26ef-4ed8-95ef-df55f2954a90/helmut-lang-fw23-13-look-1200x1799.jpg WW FALL / WINTER 2023 - MILLION DOLLAR BIKE Grunge's latest development is a celebration of the key sector that has historically driven the namesake components of Grunge, including leather, denim, and the heritage of a standoff attitude—the biker. Complimentary to this attitude was the addition of call-to-action motifs celebrating discrepancy and rebellion, including Mowalola's "sue me" tags. Look to Helmut Lang, Simkhai, and Heron Preston for key silhouettes of the biker jacket, mini skirt, and ample use of leather. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/73035f7f-2e8b-4220-9966-a93b848216ae/Capture.JPG WW FALL / WINTER 2023 - BARE IN MIND The hypersexualized, misandrous theme of barely-there dressing retains consistency throughout the fall season. Nensi Dojaka remains the key contributor to sheer dressing, motivating established houses Fendi and Prada to move into a textural exploration. Blumarine carried a 2000s wave of iridescent, see-through dressing, and a wave of mini skirt silhouettes dictated the FW23 season. Key colors Digital Lavender and Apricot Crush heightened the sex-positive agenda that remains a key contributor to the overall consumer mood shift towards resiliency and self-determination in an era of realignment. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/46d795b9-285b-4b85-8f14-c4e8807a0df6/Capture.JPG WW FALL / WINTER 2023 - AT THE INTERSECTION OF NORMCORE A paradoxical assessment of masculinity and femininity stands unwavering at a tangent of normalcy, cementing minimalism, extreme proportions, and soft key colors as the manifesto of normcore. Gender fluid traction in the fashion industry has geared an identity in the in-between, celebrating silhouettes such as the trench coat, oversized blazer, and fine knits in the overwhelming use of key color Sustained Grey. In an accelerated environment driven by toxic positivity in technology, normcore offers a realistic, toned down appeal that juxtaposes overstimulation. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/be1156c3-9012-4cf7-ba70-f568c9ea9a7a/large-1676882889-f90ba10852bee38c90f98b6dbccd978b.jpg WW FALL / WINTER 2023 - EXTRACURRICULARS Prep will always possess a sturdy seat in thematic transitioning, but is able to attest to the zeitgeist via the concept of the elevated uniform. For FW23, Prep explored feminine elegance in a 2000s translation by Connor Ives, a retrospective, nautical Ivy appeal at Simone Rocha, and an emphasis on house codes at Burberry. This future-proofed marketing remains a reliable theme for investment and a strong avenue to communicate brand heritage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/5fc2dc0b-2281-4174-8a9a-b6fa7e267ad5/Capture.JPG WW FALL / WINTER 2023 - DOING THE MOST In conjunction with menswear's obsession with playful hyperreality, womenswear fall themes remained in the outer orbit of grandiose by playing with exaggerated volume. The causality of workwear has encouraged a hyperadoption of statement-making formalwear attire. Key collections from Molly Goddard and Nina Ricci served as textbook embellishments that emboldened everyday silhouettes of the maxi coat or maxi skirt in key color Intense Rust. 16Arlington's plunging necklines and sequinned peplums offered party-perfect looks. It is purposeful and deliberate; the consumer demands attention—an awe economy that has been shelved for the past few years. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/5e245d0d-aa93-4b4a-b7a0-dae6b642a80e/fb51e3521c3008dd4e267e2d13012b9b.jpg WW FALL / WINTER 2023 - NEW ANIMALS The small push of animal print in FW23 is a notable enough risk to be mentioned, not for the objectivity of its use, but for the underlying shock-effect moment strategized to evoke conversation and act as a great connector for marketing and human emotion. Collina Strada sparked conversation with the use of actual animals, while Helmut Lang and Stella McCartney applied tasteful codes to house favorite silhouettes, notably the trench coat. Animal print is a strong theme for brand engagement that encourages flamboyant, playful consumer sentiment. https://bridgetknowles.com/ww-spring-summer-2024 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/646a1455-57f6-4506-92fe-e35989caab97/MM.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2024 - PICTURE EVERYONE IN THEIR UNDERWEAR Miu Miu continues to cement itself as a modern translative signifier of unrestrained academia and the role it plays for fashion seasonally. The hemline in SS24 has graduated from micro-school skirts to underwear and no-pants dressing, a trend adopted from high street to celebrity styling. Despite prep’s anticipated presence on the runway, the most interesting key factor SS24 brings to the table is its evolution of styling, which denotes a mature growth in the categorization of prep itself. Micro lengths and a newfound interest in polo shirts don’t allow room for the in-between, but the styling of the runway has created a space for burgeoning trends such as knee high boots, biker jackets, and intricate knits to inform street style in key colors Elemental Blue and Nutshell. The SS24 prep girl is an emancipated, conscious woman. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/7e1f71e6-561d-4090-b379-c488842e1927/AM2.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2024 - NEW NOIR The advancement of grunge has positioned itself this season in an aesthetic that perfectly balances 1990s nostalgia with a mystique of dark romance, much like film noir. A phantom thread of coven-like, grandiose dressing presents an enigma of opulence: muse or siren. Sarah Burton’s last show at Alexander McQueen created a space that perfectly embodied the allure of a possessed, mystic temperament spearheaded by intense, powerful femininity. Rabanne and Saint Laurent also each hold an aptitude for this duality, adorning looks in metallics and key color, Liquid Gold. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/8c8dc4de-7c5d-45f8-a256-bbb81df784f7/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.00.46%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2024 - SHEER ME OUT The most important driver of a decade of deconstruction is the steady continuation of lingerie dressing. The slip dress itself has become a wardrobe staple, leaving no surprise that its presence remained this season across what the industry has dubbed “super winner” brands, like Gucci. The influx of sheer seen at Acne Studios, 16Arlington, and virtually any zeitgeist-grabbing brand avoids stagnation with the seasonal introduction of shape-draping and key color Cherry Red. It’s abundantly clear that what’s transparent is here to stay. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/75cad98e-e6d4-408f-b997-e0c5e9da8ab4/PS.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2024 - RECLAIMING GIRLHOOD Fashion continues headstrong with a greater traction that seeks to regain agency over feminine identity and expression amid political agendas challenging economic empowerment for women. Simone Rocha, Bora Aksu, Mirror Palais, and Erdem exemplify fashion that’s coded with a raw vision of female beauty and the faculty it bears in modern society. This aesthetic is decoded to signal the celebration of girlhood itself and how we’re reclaiming it. This is resurrected by an onslaught of bows, rosettes, and hyper-feminine nostalgic undertones seen across media and consumer channels. It continues in SS24 with key colors Porcelain White and Fondant Pink seen in doll-like shapes and materials, including tulle, weightless layering, and the classic babydoll dress shape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/dba83017-2f65-4a8e-bce0-3e0067b2c52f/KNWLS.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2024 - SUBVERSIVE NOSTALGIA A society in flux will always revert to an interest in the deconstruction of identity to define who is what in the world—a sentimentality for what has been. A new paradox in fashion has arisen that superimposes innovative fashion technologies, such as Web3 and AI integration, against a longing for brand heritage and vintage revival. SS24 continues this theme with a lust for old age epics: the tube top, asymmetric tailoring, and navel gazing. Drop waists are the most pertinent shape of this theme, seen across Gen-Z favorites Mowalola, Molly Goddard, KNWLS and Suprita Lele. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/fb55a4df-2135-4976-b78d-ebd144e2ff4d/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+6.53.04%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2024 - DON’T COME TO ME WITHOUT DRAMA Subversive individualism infiltrates SS24 with a taste of theatrics as spectacles become center stage. Runway chooses to embrace imperfection by marrying the bigger with the better through ways of pattern, proportion, drape, layering, and, most notably, fringe. Marni’s cult New York following has created a space where nostalgic, cottage-core aesthetics embrace eccentricity, successfully amassing a celebrity book that has made the brand a concrete staple for western identity. Kiko Kostadinov holds these reigns in London, where the unconventional has become conventional cool. Look for stripes, bold patterns, and vibrant colors, notably the key color Radiant Red, all of which enable the definitive goal of this trend: to spark joy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/00f479da-1b04-46a0-b923-00a8b0b3de5f/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+6.57.38%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING / SUMMER 2024 - I AM A RICH MAN The re-introduction of Phoebe Philo and her namesake brand has created a refreshed excitement for the niche, the eternal depth luxe tailoring delivers, and the raw edge it possesses. The restrained demeanor casual suiting represents has created a space for fashion to be scaled down and champion reticence. Easy dressing for SS24 arrives fully proofed with a focus on double breasted jackets, power suit shoulders, and a continued interest in Bermuda shorts, as seen at LOEWE and Dries Van Noten. Look to key colors Sky Blue and Jet Black for inspiration and The Row for an authoritative visual. Hints of lingerie dressing are seen with the use of blazer bralette styling, micro mini bottoms, and sheer layering. https://bridgetknowles.com/mw-springsummer-24 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/5b5f3a9b-d541-4d1e-a8b4-47366622d374/GUCCI.png MW SPRING/SUMMER 2024 - GLITTER CODED Muted tones are put to rest in a season that has put the desire to push boundaries on a pedestal. Glitter has introduced itself as a trailblazing signifier of a transformative era that’s clenching celebratory codes in an era of budgeted creativity. What’s most interesting about this trend is its persistence. Nearly all big name designers integrated the use of glitter embellishment into their season, from subtle use in classic denim and signature shapes to overtly decorated bags and t-shirts. LOEWE was a notable showstopper that individualized this innovation and made glitter an A-list celebrity staple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/3c3bac7b-ad8e-45ce-a448-444bf27b2a97/DG.png MW SPRING/SUMMER 2024 - SENSITIVE SIDE The guiding theme of SS24 has evolved past tentative trials of vulnerability into a circular romance grounded in fluidity and the sensitivity it bears. A runway possessing 30% women in a male-dominated space visibly displays the unspoken mediator that’s reviving fashion: a lack of gender restraint. The harmony between male and female facing aesthetics props an antagonistic discourse against a macroeconomic flux, welcoming a gentle, serene lightness to menswear that it has historically lacked. Monochromatic satin and overflowing shapes melted on the runway, with the new key shape, the midi dress, appearing for the first time cross-designer in key colors Pearl and Blush Pink. In a market largely overrun by a fascination with sheer, a propensity to “see-through” and bare it all has become definitive of the current zeitgeist. Look to Dolce & Gabbana, Saint Laurent and Ludovic Saint Sermin for what is positioned to be the future of renewed masculinity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/43814b15-09db-4cd3-b8a2-ca864a5621b1/DIOR.png MW SPRING/SUMMER 2024 - UPSCALE COLLEGIATE Prep’s gradual inclination towards opulence has fully emancipated itself in a tender, unadulterated celebration that takes the best of womenswear and weaves its codes into its own practiced, masculine rules. Sophisticated key shapes such as the blazer, bomber jacket, and polo shirt adopt small, soft embellishments. Ballerina shoes, fisherman sandals, and a novel high waist alongside a tiny short argue a discourse for delicate academia. Tweed, ties, and a resurgence of stripes dominating the runway uphold the history of prep in contemporary fashion. Look to key colors Elemental Blue and Nutshell across Dior, Prada, and Amiri for today’s new lessons. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/de7280fc-a431-4c4e-a486-4b9f75fb7741/ERL.png MW SPRING/SUMMER 2024 - PLANET B Escapism remains a central theme that’s compressing otherworldliness into clever shapes that are fit for survival. Militaristic undertones, such as the bomber jacket, paired with landscape prints and chubby sneakers, make the abnormal an amusing space for fashion to feel like it's traversing past modern themes into a discourse forward enough that we can beg the conversation to consider Planet B. Key color Cyber Lime is seen across ERL, Givenchy, and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy in outfits that are ready for the near future—an impending doom. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/0ecd4f17-7587-4d44-9912-c2e4548300e8/MR.png MW SPRING/SUMMER 2024 - YOUTH RAVE The transformative energy of the 90s grunge music scene has bled into the hedonistic draw towards self-determination and the power of a collective experience that the runway has been begging to display. Dynamic visuals of print, texture, and messy decadence create a landscape film of unapologetic youth in a way to keep audiences creatively authentic. Acne Studios’ texture, DSquared2’s flippant attitude, and Martine Rose’s effortless cool are textbook new age rave, while key colors Radiant Red and Mandarin Orange tie together loose ends in a conversation that champions freedom of thought. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/00f33052-ae2e-4ea8-82d1-b5762b96b23e/PRADA.png MW SPRING/SUMMER 2024 - GORPCORE ALL GROWN UP The almost palpable influence of quiet luxury and its trendy marketing schemes has redefined itself in SS24 by melding itself with another modern season-defying contender: gorpcore. The maturation of utilitarian codes offers a refreshing three-dimensional take on tailoring that doesn’t feel tired and creates a casual space that’s suitable for the everyday lives of the masses. Here, formality is a function. Oversized pockets, easy enclosures, and zip-up vests are an ode to the artisanal worker. Prada, Hermes, and Givenchy harness this juxtaposition well: the aptitude to layer soft tailoring with rigid, functional shape. https://bridgetknowles.com/social-media-campaigns daily 0.75 2023-12-02 https://bridgetknowles.com/mw-fallwinter-2024 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/f001ccd0-6c1f-406e-b7f3-0a020362ecdd/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.11.22%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL/WINTER 2024 - ELEGANCY LORE “The suit is on Ozempic” was the go-to morning text for all fashion week goers bearing their souls city to city as FW24 heralded in the new age of the razor-sharp gentleman that was giving “my father is a lawyer.” Fashion critics love to press on “amid turbulent times” and “in a time of uncertainty” left and right, but what we’re dancing around is a plain, simple fact: the world is always going to be low-key f*cked, but fashion will always respond because that’s what it is: a reflection of cultural and subcultural tone. Recent seasons have relied heavily on the narrative that we’re making the elegant male casual. Loose tailoring, bed-to-office suiting, and intentional decomposition left an opportunity gap for tasteful luxury. Perhaps not tasteful, actually, but historic, which is an interesting determinant in FW24 menswear. Not only did we see the meticulous reemergence of the full-suited, tightly tailored look, but we also saw slick cuts drawing inspiration from the 70s, 80s, and 20s. Okay, cleaned up Jack a la Titanic car scene? Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino restored the archetypal elegant man down the runway, with slim, elongated silhouettes drawing defined lines head to floor atop sleek-fitted satin shirts, precise tuxedo jackets, and the elevated loafer. The prominence of black across the runway was outstated, but there was room for key colors Sustained Gray and White Swan to compete. Of note, Dior Homme also tapped into historic coding, but did so with a play-on of ballet-inspired footwear that merged the refinement of textbook masculinity with our androgynous zeitgeist. We’ve now entered baroque, so call up your great grandpa and get that charming heirloom, vintage brooch, and poplin-ass shirt out. Time for full class. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/e7b7e407-be36-473e-ac2b-6d9f7796e16e/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.18.35%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL/WINTER 2024 - WE ARE SO BACK The tie is sooo back. Our season-defining sartorial component was found nearly on every single runway, long-neglected, never sought out, but finally back in our grasp. The tie has animated the strict tone of FW24 into a playful pawn any designer can project on: smart and nostalgic at Prada, kinky at De Sarno, lackadaisical at JW Anderson, retro at Marine Serre, and elegant at Dolce & Gabbana. Long debated as being a prefix of conformism, the tie has been given nearly the most hate across each season and has been on the precipice of a conversion for the last few years. Someone just had to pull the trigger and f*ck with it, which FW24 did. The tie will evolve to be noteworthy this season, so be prepared to love it and live it, but mostly redefine the essence of it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/c22b6b16-7a7f-4439-9ed9-456e49cc1d7a/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.24.35%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL/WINTER 2024 - MAN BUILD FIRE FOOD SHELTER Men love the outdoors. They love it. Interestingly enough, this is the one thematic residence that womenswear runway doesn’t mirror from season to season but instead integrates subtly. Men and nature’s love affair hit peak heights in the last four years with the seismic pull of gorpcore that impaired the forefront of the male brain for anything outside of explorer intuition. This season’s wave of refinement has pulled that crazy train back down to earth (nature pun) with strong pillars of versatility and adaptability on a canvas of smart fashion. Prada and Emporia Armani weaved in nods of subversion to traditional wear with comfort-driven functionality, while Fendi, Kenzo, and Todd Snyder nodded towards more overtly practical sportswear wardrobes that adhere to seasonality. Key colors Raw Umber, Baritone Blue, natural pigments, and universal greens, possessed an inherent richness and earthiness that transcended daily wear and compounded fashion’s connection to nature. It would be remiss not to mention the shearling coat’s prominence out there, making moves and taking names as the hero for outdoor-inspired, tactile performance wear in FW24. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/c7274d19-6a53-4037-9fae-697e226ebaab/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.15.17%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL/WINTER 2024 - LIFE UPDATE: GOING BORING You can’t have fashion month without at least one fashion head standing next to you post-show in the uber queue, scanning the scene, scrunching their face, and unveiling a heartfelt “I just feel like this season is so... boring.” FW24 is simply that—snore fest. The every-day person is undoubtedly the largest inspiration on the runway this season, with each designer dropping a quote on finding their meditation in the every-day life of a city or suburban dweller. Basically, we’re getting lame as hell. The essence of this focus is to unearth the integration of what it’s like to be quote-on-quote normal in fashion, which is both wildly ironic and intimately thought-provoking. What is it like to wake up and sprint to your 9–5 half-dressed? How does one navigate the ebb and flow of a chaotic city while also mentally being a chaotic person themselves? How do we define shifting landscapes between finite subcultures in a world so interconnected by media? Impulse and desire run rampant through FW24 collections as Prada navigates the sleep paralysis of the white collar worker, Auralee and WOOYOUNGMI try to understand rapid dressing (I left the house and forgot to put a shirt on core), and LOEWE romanticizes old people that live next to each other. There’s an overarching sense of hurriedness, mundaneness, and repetitiveness in a display that is grasping for monotony yet showcasing the contemporary social divide between the people who actually do live day to day like this and those who use it as art on the runway. Untethered by ideals and rooted in reality, we desperately try to navigate our zeitgeist in an era so fueled by confusing dispositions. Boring can be magnificent, but the magnificent is rarely boring. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/d91de6a3-132f-4ebe-8351-18b151773606/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.19.49%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL/WINTER 2024 - I WAS BORN IN THE RIGHT GENERATION The fallout brother to FW24’s eleganza is the more hip, timeless tapestry of retro refiltering. Subcultural references have a grip on fashion that signature the obscurity, translating from streetwear to sportswear and all the bits in-between. Martine Rose is a strong leader in narrating this phenomenon, showcasing to FW24 the fluidity between city bankers, sports blokes, downtown skaters, and dodgy, dive-bar punks. The people’s people, full stop. Color-rich jewel tones, furs, and heavy print motifs at Louis Vuitton, Rhode, and Drôle de Monsieur are the essence of the heightened suburban male in city life that’s vibrant, nostalgic, and honestly, just f*cking cool. You’re bumming a cig off him, you’re listening to his podcast, and you’re layering (on top of layering) your bomber jackets with him. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/e1df4fcd-d00e-4084-8546-034d0f2b26b3/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.17.07%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL/WINTER 2024 - SWEET BABYGIRL The man of the moment is babygirl, our androgynously coded it-boy. Eschewing the soft masculine formula cross-media, babygirl prompts us to question the cis-female hottie archetype in favor of the genderless, sensitive, quirky, Wes-Anderson-Luca-Guadagnino-built man who has a fandom in a chokehold. Who is the babygirl on the runway? Well, we created this monster. They are the etymology of a genderless radicalism in fashion that has matured into a generic understanding that it’s not a jumpscare that menswear can be feminine anymore—it just is. Propositions have turned into an intentional foundation as Fendi throws in a pleated skirt, and round and rounder silhouettes with frill fill Stefan Cooke and Willy Chavarria’s runway. Mary Jane at Dior Homme is a staple, and we go so far as to make our babygirl sexy at Burberry, YSL, and Ludovic de Saint Sernin, where every look contains a sheer or low-cut moment. Further, Mugler, Marni, Vestments, Simone Rocha, and Collina Strada—it’s just not funny nor notable anymore how fluidity has melded into fashion. It is, however, important to indoctrinate going forward, especially when it goes hand in hand with a traditionalist redux found elsewhere in FW24. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/07160727-51ce-4ad5-8b4d-244f841e0ef5/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.22.36%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL/WINTER 2024 - THE PREP YOUR PARENTS WANT TO SEE The timeline of prep as a thematic core is barred from any commentary on evolving runway trends because it’s not a conversation of if but a conversation of how. To be honest, it’s more consistent than any Joshy-type man you’ll ever date. In step with an overarching mood of refinement, FW24’s prep exchange introduced the prep male, whose tropes were showcased as clean, tailored, and mature. It was attitude that fluctuated, as a deeper interest in the cultural layers of prep was what defined this year’s tone. Outside of obvious references to core campus silhouettes, the runway experimented with lacing art, design, film, and music typology in unexpected shapes such as the parka, blouson, and reedited cap. Take Kiko Kostadinov and Wales Bonner in Paris, for example, literally projecting both on screen and on the runway a day-in-the-life overview of what it’s like to be at school, as if our pre-adult trauma couldn’t grasp it readily. Dior Homme playfully finessed the prep man in a world of elegancy, effortlessly dictating the uniformity of each subject. At Fendi, the pleated skirt flirted with androgyny, while Gucci and BOTTER cemented the rise of the stripe in outerwear in key colors: Pinecone, Intense Rust, and Cherry Lacquer. For fashion, school will always be a reliable source of compatibility. https://bridgetknowles.com/mw-fallwinter-2024-copy daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/0f96e4e4-7363-4b1d-84fe-5a37f02f57a2/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.35.21%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL/WINTER 2024 - LOVE LETTER TO REAL WOMENS’ CLOSETS Fashion is so unserious right now. We’ve spent the last few years swinging back and forth on the pendulum of hyper-dopamine and easy dressing to bipolar degrees that no minimalist, Phoebe-Philo-matcha-drinking therapist could ever explain for $300+ an hour. Designers in each city have confessed to feeling almost paralyzed by a push for fantastical relevancy, to the point where it has reverted itself. Instead of translating the world to satisfy an agenda of conversation, it feels more instinctual and pertinent in this moment to reflect on the actual bullsh*t we do each day. FW24 did just that—like, almost too much. The ruthless hustle of modern life is FW24’s strongest meditation. It’s the romanticization of the bodega run, the 9-5, the "fml, I have to go to the post office,” and the “guys, meet you there; I’m dressed v casual, btw.” JW Anderson takes the most prolific stab at narrating this sequence by profiling British surbubia in its most authentic, hurried fashion: running out the door and forgetting to put a shirt on under deliberate outerwear, belts flying off ingeniously tailored trousers, and socks attached to hand-crafted shoes. The idiosyncrasies between “real” and calculated fashion provide a platform to acknowledge the hustle the industry puts into fashion month and the disparity it possesses in application to our actual lives. In a Zeitgeist of such pop-centered fashion, it’s rebellious to deconstruct the narrative and center it on the awkwardness of everydayness. Our daily lives are at the core of reductionism. Something ironic can be said about designers like Connor Ives taking inspiration from “real women," but the sentiment is there: we unknowingly romanticize the f*ck out of nostalgia and boringness (cue Tish Weinstock with Apple headphones). Especially in a downturning economy. The FW24 woman is grabbing what’s in her closet and running out the door, albeit a designer-constructed fur coat on top of a tailored silk camisole, but she still is doing the bare minimum, much like we honestly do each day. She is simple, but direct. Chaotic, but considered. Matthieu Blazy put it best in creating his “monument out of the everyday," a transformative show revealing how even the most inconsequential objects we glaze over day to day and throw on our bodies can possess the magnitude to be, well, beautiful. Unified under this mantra were Eckhaus Latta, Retrofit, Jason Wu, and Balenciaga. A wave of humanism has hit fashion, from runway to editorial, that feels strangely mundane yet strangely more authentic. This has stirred conversation and, most importantly, emotion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/0270c069-bcb3-4f7a-8a43-1a3ed1d3aa23/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.41.31%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL/WINTER 2024 - NIPPLES THAT’S IT THAT’S THE TEXT We literally cannot escape the nipple in FW24, for good measure or not. We’ve freed it entirely. It’s done; she’s out there to a degree where it isn’t even notable anymore. The superlatives of naked dressing have animated themselves through a series of season-to-season chic, skin-bearing prowess that celebrate the study of womanhood and sensuality, normalizing and bringing power to houses that dare to bear it. Unapologetically, the nipple was a trademark of FW24, which has hyper-exaggerated fluidity in fashion and a concealed refinement of what sheer fabric signals in womenswear: power, control, and maturity. Dilara Findikoglu in London produced the most gobsmacking physical performance to translate this, creating a manifesto of complex female authority so many women understand in a society too timid to give disclosure to. This compelling, emotional storytelling was interwoven across the runway as YSL, Susan Fang, Simone Rocha, and Gucci followed in suit, again orchestrating the duality of transparency and protection and perhaps the role we play in categorizing each. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/bfefd599-2d9a-4d9f-9aa8-58228fa0c569/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.37.52%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL/WINTER 2024 - YEAR OF THE GIRL— WOMAN Femininity is always stereotyped as a “play on power,” and FW24 cemented the truth behind the fact that there is no play happening here; it is power, and the paradigm shift of soft menswear against sophisticated womenswear illustrates the illicit undertone the zeitgeist possesses. 2023 proved to be a year so slyly coded with female valor, i.e., Taylor Swift and Beyonce’s disgustingly sold-out tours, Barbie getting everyone's panties in a bunch, and a newly beefed-up Kristen Stewart, that it’s only fitting we graduate the year of the girl to what she’s been underneath the bows this entire time: a full-grown, smart as f*ck woman. Coquette has been duly rinsed for all its worth and has finally chiseled itself from dainty down to direct female form. Stripped from ethereal cues, we’ve upped the power, upped the sex, and upped sophistication as designers start flexing femininity in its rawest form. Simone Rocha is the woman of women this season, gagging FW24 with an ornate blueprint of the juxtaposition between girlhood and womanhood rendered by the portrayal of a powerful, embellished woman accessorized by lambs (yes, literal lambs), which is symbolic of girlhood. The Simone Rocha runway is girl vs. woman in a funeral procession for naivety. Erdem and Richard Quinn nod to the same, with tulle-contrasting body-con silhouettes in key color Cherry Lacquer and dresses with muscular designs in key colors Iguana and Dark Shadows. We also see the maturity of color in the use of primarily bright, fresh-focused pastels such as Digital Lavender, Pana Cotta, and Glacial Blue on sleek suiting and sculpted pieces. This color play so finely denotes the essence of our girl-to-woman portrait, which nods to femininity but grasps a tough, unwavering attitude. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/b62affea-0ca0-4316-aa87-d7f0994e7e64/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.43.11%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL/WINTER 2024 - HEALING MY INNER CHILD Writing a thematic synopsis on something as physical as the tangibility of what’s been on the runway seems like a cop-out, but in FW24, it’s notable enough to be a story. Much like the duvet dressing run of 2021, hyper textures backed by intricate weight filtering into shape have felt like a torque-filled slap to the face on the runway this season, allowing an avenue for comfort and being low-key extra in a weird world. The element of coziness is key here, creating a safe space for the inner child to revel in the tactile, sweet side of fashion. Stella McCartney, Ferragamo, and Bottega Veneta, three big names for a mouth, do just that by superimposing extra-large texture, volume, and thought onto what we would call our everyday essentials. Faux fur and shaggy layers contrasted with considered, elegant shapes on foundations of classic outerwear and knitwear from Serafini, Blumarine, and Philosophy di Lorenzo. This juxtaposition of contemplated, statuesque shape paired with flamboyant texture in key color Cherry Tomato provides agency for FW24 while retaining reflection on the mundane human experience. Think of it as the opposite of naked dressing under the same umbrella of protectionism—it’s just another avenue to animate human uncertainty in hyperbole. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/10790f9d-c0f1-454d-a32e-3314d45137f0/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.38.55%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL/WINTER 2024 - IF THERE’S NO CRAFTING OF CLASSICS I’M NOT GOING Is there space for revolutionist design in a world where the vibes are kinda off? FW24 doesn’t see it. Instead, the prototype is pushed forward in an effort to reconfigure classical signaling and reproduce items with more dynamic layers. Proenza Schouler, Schiaparelli, and Helmut Lang are masterful at this, being able to take something as imitable as the suit and construct it with next-level tailoring. The thoughtfulness behind the dismantling of standard cues becomes emotive as designers like Sinead O’Dwyer create space for a sexy, subverted 9-5, and Burberry gets cheeky with fur and zippers protruding out of traditional outerwear and check trousers. Classics are inverted to bring to perspective what we’ve defined them with in the first place. In FW24, the limelight for this was the necktie, a previous signal that suggests conformism and entrapment. Prada’s commentary on the runway has reinvigorated a discussion on a dead symbol and prompts us to consider timelessness—is it what we make it or what it has made us? A boundary we constantly need to push. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/668e0261-23b6-4489-9059-fcae103aedfe/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.44.34%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL/WINTER 2024 - I’M NOT THE SAME HOUSE CODE I WAS A YEAR AGO There’s an importance to the introspective mediation of retelling classics, especially in the mirroring of a house’s own traditional coding. FW24 gave off an overwhelmingly paired back vibe that has admittedly felt monotonous and played out to its dying breath in a “quiet luxury” society. This season’s core, historic return designers committed to a new bit that, surprisingly, is strong—find the clarity between the ease of repetition and the challenge of change. Big name houses all possess “hero” pieces, the ones you would recognize anywhere, i.e., the Burberry scarf, Chanel boy bag, or Gucci loafer. FW24 does an expert job of taking these house codes, paying dues to the history that it’s owed, and moving it forward. Burberry, Tommy Hilfiger, and Helmut Lang all subscribed to reconstructing timeless classics with urban appeal, with Burberry proposing an ode to the headscarf, Tommy repurposing tweed tailoring, and Peter Do’s eye on the 90’s archive. At Miss Dior, the moodboard consisted of A-line skirts, tight waists, and Dior-coded maxi silhouettes, but on the runway, these shapes were translated to a more liberal, looser contextualization. There was a resilient return to roots paired with nods to house values that objectively shouldn’t feel innovative, but is. Likewise, Chloe made a debut with new creative director Chemena Kamali that didn’t feel at all new but instead felt timely in grasping the essence of who the Chloe woman is foundationally. FW24 holds an aura of intuition and understatement that’s heralding a clever, reverent type of vogue. https://bridgetknowles.com/mw-ss25 daily 0.75 2024-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/e9ae6b56-1d11-454e-9d97-6d5a2a04d228/Screenshot+2024-07-25+at+12.18.10%E2%80%AFPM.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2025 - LOWKEY EXPERIENCING STUFF Over the last two seasons there has been an overwhelming sentiment that big house boys and your local tiktok types are pushing—fashion is sat. The newest “sleep to street” trend has blended the nuance between home comfort and an interdependent shift to nameless, high fashion. Think A$AP Rocky and Kendall Jenner using paparazzi photos for Bottega campaigns, Hunter Schafer and Harris Dickinson doing the bare minimum at Prada, and Kim Kardashian chair rotting for Balenciaga. I mean, we’ve gone so far as to make flip-flops chic this season. Men’s SS25 is similarly expertly remiss. All eyes have been on Jonathon Anderson and LOEWE’s disciplined impact across media. If he wasn’t on our movie screens, he was occupying our third brain cells with his newest exploration of the relationship between nostalgic home and contemporary society. This duality, albeit exaggerated as he does, signposts a multidisciplinary era of fashion that is so richly intelligent in navigating the zeitgeist while simultaneously possessing dadaistic humility. Silky, pillow-like textures, cashmere, structured blazers, and cartoonish home staples in key color Transcendent Pink—it’s no less luxurious than textbook luxury house offerings, yet they possess a grounded tone of luxury you can’t quantify or make tangible to what every other house is doing. She’s effortless, and she probably smells like grandma. This consistency of mature comfort JW Anderson has been producing is so important for a new era of brand identity that chooses to create a narrative on runway that can directly translate the modern human experience in a non-offensive way. No one wants that 9-5 lifestyle anymore, and having the foresight to grasp that future consumer’s bias in an organic way is a profound, Darwinistic ability. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/f9ac2455-585e-40b9-8218-b96a2dde2146/Screenshot+2024-07-25+at+12.23.36%E2%80%AFPM.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2025 - MATCH POINT For all those whose soundtrack of the summer is Challengers’ score, SS25 is safe for you. Rugby, (real) football, baseball, and tennis’ newest run on fashion have grasped a consistent dynamic that has served as a foil to the wave of lax streetwear. Sportswear, streetwear— what’s the difference anymore? The modern man, who has zero game and a very big heart, is versatile on his feet. He elevates every day blokecore into a licensed aesthetic. Matching point for point, brands like Louis Vuitton, Fendi, and Dunhill are capitalizing on a sports-minded attitude with a genteel twist. This has become the new face of sports: traditional, collegiate energy seen in urbane craftsmanship. This has cultivated in v-necks galore, intricate stitching patterns on utility shapes, and refinement of prep codes, like the baseball cap or sports jersey. London’s very own marquee, Martine Rose, is the masterclass in channeling retro coding of rich color palettes on timeless sport silhouettes, such as the bomber and polo shirt. Look to newfound tunnel culture within professional sports. Athletes themselves are stepping out. Fashion is manipulating this landscape to bend traditional masculinity into a wholesale product across the entire ideological journey of an athlete. This has scored a modern lifestyle on a canvas of the Euros, Copa, Olympics, and a full-swing tennis fetish. It’s smart comfort and sophisticated playfulness. SS25 is winning the game, and I don’t know who needs to hear it, but the girl in the Brazil crop top, Adidas shorts, and knee-high boots is not good for you. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/7a2f4cca-8b3e-4821-9180-0e50b25cf66c/Screenshot+2024-07-25+at+12.21.18%E2%80%AFPM.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2025 - BIG ADVOCATE FOR MEN WEARING SHORTER SHORTS If your DM inbox wasn’t filled with Paul Mescal at Gucci SS25, I’m convinced no one cares about your mental health. We are the apex of the inseams war in society, as the margin between mature male and little slut is less defined by the minute. Jeremy Allen White’s arms are getting bigger, Donald Glovers calves have replaced his music career, and Chris Pine is being a downright freak. We can’t get enough. Men’s fashion is dropping trou left and right, a healthy nod to tender male confidence and traditional, nostalgic tailoring. Fendi, Dsquared2, and Prada all dexterously interweaved a refined, shorter hemline to structured utility shapes. Following suit, LOEWE and Raf Simons made a case for male midriff that no one is complaining about. There’s a niche subset of coding men’s fashion can address that makes a look feel more sophisticated. A short hemline is an avenue that negates sloppiness in place of unspoken assurance. I trust a man in a little short-short. Bring it on, sluts! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/3ba34571-88a9-4515-b8e4-70c033af65bb/Screenshot+2024-09-28+at+7.54.36%E2%80%AFPM.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2025 - SAY IT WITH YOUR CHEST Imagine hiding behind your keyboard, but it’s IRL, and it’s actually on your shirt because it’s SS25. Now imagine that’s caught on film by Rihana’s lawless iPhone filming form. Sloganization of fashion may feel too Facebook Mom in a political news cycle that gets more neurotic each day, but its wave makes sense for SS25. This is mostly in part to A$AP Rocky's performative debut AWGE fashion show, which imprinted phrases “”DON’T BE DUMB,” AMERICAN SABOTAGE," "POLITICAL SATIRE," and "NYPD" on t-shirts, candidly alluding to political messaging. The slogan tee is historically the origin of troublemaking, and that’s precisely what it’s here to do in SS25: double down. In tandem, JW Anderson begged for “REAL SLEEP,” and Dior Men only gives “Dior for my real friends.” MSGM wants you to know they’re “NOT A TOURIST: I LIVE HERE." Cross-media, Zendaya’s “I TOLD YA,” off-duty actress Kaia Gerber’s intellectualized crop tops, and Rihanna retiring via Conner Ives have kept the social stream busy. Brat even had its own slime green wall; f*ck the t-shirt. SS25 is playful, but each signage has posed as a tangible alignment with a brand's DNA. This solidifies house codes and offers a sense of insider intellectualism to each consumer—a masterful play at creating a cult following and exclusivity. What’s next? We will probably have to read the next shirt on Deux Moi to find out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/3586ddb6-c242-4838-9644-68f2c3cf46a0/Screenshot+2024-07-25+at+12.20.22%E2%80%AFPM.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2025 - LEGENDS NEVER DIE It would be criminal not to pay cultural homage to Dries Van Noten’s final runway show, a bittersweet, nostalgic coding and end of a legacy era. Set before a capital-f fashion dense crowd, Dries’ SS25 felt like a congratulatory celebration instead of a somber goodbye. An impactful retrospect of Dries’ work glided down a silver leaf runway, a nod to his 2006 catwalk and an offering to the audience to reflect on what Dries' eponymous label has accomplished over nearly 40 years. Signature, loose-tailored clothing on a “continuum of connection” bore respect to the expert craft classicism, tangible emotion, and sharp innovation Dries has resurrected and married together in his career. To achieve that imitability is rare. Fear not, though. He'll still be around—something everyone is grateful for. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/e409e0eb-e661-47fb-b46a-d4d6a2ea9dda/Screenshot+2024-07-25+at+12.17.32%E2%80%AFPM.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2025 - MY PARENTS’ HOUSE ON NANTUCKET Americana, prep-privilege, “Naut”y boys! We’re back to classic, coastal elite wealth. The established rapport of prep in men’s fashion is another victim to a wave of sophistication, but one whose essence in elegance feels emotionally correct. Undeniably, nautical prep dominated SS25 with prototype waspiness: sailor-inspired tops, crisp white trousers, finely tailored blazers, and key color Cobalt Blue anchors nonetheless. Modern Maritime was seen across Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Sacai, and MSGM in volume-bending polo-paradigms that agree yachting is a pastime. Waves of elegance upended atypical bucket hats, loafers, and fisherman bags with charming raffia and stripes in a contemporary flair. Auralee in particular has been cementing itself as a strong “I’m chill, but obviously too expensive for you” competitor, using the ability to hit a sweet spot between prep trends and luxe sensitivity. If it’s not a cunningly tailored check, it’s gingham pajamas and a knit cable sweater. This organic edge on craftsmanship has grasped the new cult niche, or seemingly the nouveau riche, across socials and has placed Auralee with the likes of Proenza and Our Legacy. Posh is undoubtedly a consistent riser, delegating a rich romance with heritage as the tapestry of the season. That being said, I need a product of multi-generational wealth, JFK Jr.-presenting, big nose boy in a nautical stripe to talk to me. I’d be the first one to truly listen. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/fdf70bf3-0ae6-4ed2-b23c-45a9d3a91bdb/Screenshot+2024-07-25+at+12.22.58%E2%80%AFPM.png MW SPRING / SUMMER 2025 - NEON ERGONOMICS Utility’s narrative over the past few seasons has been a lively conversation, transcending the gorp man into a quintessential figurehead of modern masculinity through the guiding principles of expert Japanese tailoring and technical fabrics. Color and shape refinement has been key in composing the versatility of the utility man, a skill cult staples such as Arc’teryx and Salomon have been able to solidify into the social conversation. Utility has been on a journey— in SS22 it was gaining prominence on the heels of a strong FW21 catwalk. Brands like A-COLD-WALL and Reese Cooper served as the cementation of it-boy gorp. In FW22 and SS23, we saw that moody, balaclava-driven male soften into a refined muse of nature who’s more boyish and playful. This is thanks to charm-forward brands LOEWE and Kenzo. SS24 saw the maturation of that childlike innocence, merging the sartorial with functional intuition. This was demonstrated by sharp powerhouses Fendi and Armani. Now, the SS25 explorer is tapping back into a shock jock attitude by adding an amuse-bouche of neon color onto a perfected, crisp silhouette. It's houses like Bluemarble, Prada, and MSGM that craftfully placed pops of synthetic key colors Sunset Coral and Aquatic Awe to transcend pragmatic structure. In line, Martine Rose and Kiko Kostadinov held space for a slime green, a color that’s been the anthem of brat summer, in lax shapes built strategically for lifestyle. This use of neon color is used in part of a two-way system: communicate emotion and prioritize pleasure. The modern evolution of wellness culture adheres to this, both in physical and virtual world applications. The use of neon in a very physical, applicative form on the SS25 runway resonates with this dogma. It feels raw, almost lab-grown, and offers a consumer tangible color efficacy and a visual of conscious hedonism. Pleasure can be practical, especially in a world that requires small bites of daily escapism. New aura points for the utility male. https://bridgetknowles.com/ww-springsummer-2025 daily 0.75 2024-11-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/831120c2-a00c-4d86-a749-d56964006d33/Screenshot+2024-11-01+at+3.59.22%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING/SUMMER 2025 - HOW IT FEELS TO SAY “BUT, MIND YOU” WHEN TELLING A STORY IN FASHION SS25’s strongest plot line refocuses us on the art of juxtaposition. The makeshift human can live life down to anecdotal ingredients: peanut butter goes with jelly, blue and black don’t mix, don’t be a hat person if, at your core, you’re only thinking about being a hat person the entire time you’re wearing one. Thoughtless boundaries can dictate life if we aren’t conscious of taking a third perspective into why we subscribe to such weird parameters. When quiet luxury and a “less is more for engagement” tribunal in an era of extreme information dominates the media mix, it’s difficult to differentiate what fashion should make the cultural protagonist. In SS25, it’s itself. SS25 draws attention to the balance of extremes: embellishment and utility. There’s no reason your outdoor clothing shouldn’t be treated as evening wear or that your minimalistic approach shouldn’t include accoutrements. It’s a windbreaker where a windbreaker should not be, paired with a luxe, beaded skirt at The Attico. It’s seasonless colors—rich greens and reds—anoraks at Burberry paired with sequined dresses. The Hermes tomboy is dually a sensual dresser. The Gucci girl is glamour in a trench. It’s a satire take that is heavily aligned with the highbrow art world, or just enough of an eye roll to find the irony in the very joke of it all. High culture reference, low culture digest, and appropriately funny misgivings. Fashion loves the internet. This complex duality of the SS25 woman is translated through styling, a strong POV we rarely celebrate across the runway nor have the opportunity to champion. At Prada, the devious minds of Miuccia and Raf do this seamlessly by creating an absolute eyesore down the runway. The wrong coat with the wrong feathered dress, the wrong colored tights with an expertly tailored overcoat, and the absolute incorrect hat (holes included) and sunglasses (jumpscare, butterfly aesthetic) with a chic suiting ensemble. It’s an antagonistic rollercoaster top to bottom, highlighting the importance of how we perceive fashion and how we actually digest fashion. It’s otherworldly outside of calling it an everyday organza. It’s pure chaos. A direct move against the derivative. This season is making evident that fashion shouldn’t make a linear, cohesive story. Fashion is references; it’s emotive, and it’s inconclusive. It’s really, to the core, strange if you attempt to make it make sense. Yuhan Wang can have a jersey with bubble miniskirts. No21 can throw an awkward scarf on anything. SS25 is to remind you that fashion has the ability to step outside the everyday cycle. Prada, Bottega, Loewe, any big name house in SS25 is translating the subsidiary of the imitative: expression unedited. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/78683624-6c80-4b02-b33d-0a8511ae7330/Screenshot+2024-11-01+at+4.02.11%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING/SUMMER 2025 - A CERTAIN KIND OF PANACHE Sometimes it really can just come down to a moment in time, and for SS25, that’s primary on the moodboard. Amidst a season of brilliantly sharp wit (and a bit of goading), there lies a margin of refinement that has given a lot of houses more depth to their collections. If SS25 was built to take up space and be the drama, the side plot of the season was the ability to hone in on a singular sentiment or thoughtful mechanism. For Burberry, she’s simply caught in the rain. At Gucci, sunset hues and rich reds played out the winding down of a really gorgeous day. Bottega Veneta brought you back to seeing life through the eyes of a child while sitting in an animal chair surrounded by friends. Reversely, the moment could be the components. Prada, Ganni, and Acne sent down exaggerated, intentful silhouettes. Countless brands, including Loewe, Erdem, and Yuhan Wang, ushered in 18th century panniers. At Ferragamo, Moschino, and Missoni fringe was the focus. A soft flow possessed Chloe and Alaia. Moschino, Erdem, and Fendi perfected the 1920’s flapper. The focal point was point-blank artisanal work, an anchor to fashion that can be celebrated when you adopt a defined mindset in place of constant movement. This is contradictory to the entire mindset of SS25, which, in a twisted way, is exactly in harmony with the overriding tone: deny repetition, embrace the unlikely. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/03a60ed9-9322-4f40-8447-e1a8d64fcb25/Screenshot+2024-11-01+at+3.53.01%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING/SUMMER 2025 - WHAT I MEAN WHEN I SAY I WANT TO WORK REMOTELY Return to office calls, a pivotal election, a general non-joie de vivre life when you have to pay +20% markup on your weekly grocery run; our day-to-day lives haven’t reached this level of bootleg chaos since the last resurgence of Americana workwear. Fashion’s strong suit has always been possessing the ability to reflect modernity in a way that makes emotive movements and social underpinnings a visual experience for history. Take 1940’s, 1980’s, and even 2008 fashion when suiting crazes had you and your next door neighbor in workwear seeking timelessness, quality, and durability. We can even nod to cultural moments that have elevated the suiting to social signage of power and notoriety. American Psycho, the Civil Rights Movement, Jazz. Recession to suiting pipeline—the old trickle-down effect. Fashion is a mirror of society. What we’re witnessing in SS25 is the tried and true reform of fashion under a microscope of recession: a return to fine tailoring and business-forward appeals. In times of volatile economic stress, fashion leans towards taking a formal approach. The vision is to get everyone back to work to make that money. It feels natural to put fine tailoring hand in hand with a streamlined notion, but here in SS25 there is an overwhelming aura of headstrong purpose. We’re now suiting up in order to double down. SS25’s womenswear take on this low-steered oscillation is to direct the suiting reproach to a narrative that doesn’t diminish power but instead fuels it. Wider shoulders, oversized trousers, and boxy eyewear are key structural elements that relinquish delicacy in place of controlled femininity. Look to CFDA Designer of the Year, Willy Chavarria. His vision of American style, zoot suits, oversized flannels, and full trousers is poised with the energy of American immigrants. That’s power. At Bottega Veneta, oversized, crumpled oxfords are seen with oversized blazers and longline waistcoats, like a child carelessly dressing in their parent’s clothes to take on the world. That’s power. We see these narratives that challenge the confines of traditional work environments play out across SS25, from Stella McCartney’s layering to AREA’s hat to suit combos. Each nod to unconventional workwear acted as a vehicle to amplify the crucial message that the SS25 woman doesn’t need masculine archetypes or an enthusiastic offering to be viewed as strong. She takes up space, and with that unconventional space comes control and purpose. There is no challenged notion, which is a large departure from corporate culture and encapsulates an equative gender shift. What does success look like today? Who is this puissant woman? She’s coming for you suited in f*cking Saint Laurent is who she is. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/9192076d-4d83-4e77-b281-da1df0c3a3ac/Screenshot+2024-11-01+at+3.59.29%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING/SUMMER 2025 - I LOVE WHEN I SEE A CLASSIC COMBO IRL High fashion has met the sports world head-on, and the growing number of sports motifs and color-blocking has diluted the collegiate stripe to grant a more sophisticated message: sports can be sleek, too. Prep-turned-athletic aesthetics and stadium styling core have evolved into decisive nonchalance. The most notable take on this was seen with collaborations in SS25. AVAVAV x Adidas pulled through with the most successful viral runway, but that’s second in part to how polished and streamlined the track suits were, or even the compescence of the rugby and hot pant. Elsewhere, The Attico x Nike pulled off the same beautiful antithesis: sporty, nylon, and rainproof trousers with a chic, oversized blazer. Untraditional sporty materials are meeting major high fashion references. Attendance saw prep legacies Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren adopt the same approach they did in the 90s, bringing back an air of thoughtful streetwear to extremely chic, upper-class coding in brick reds and classic navy. It’s laid-back but polished. This energetic feel was also seen at Jil Sander, where a baseball shirt saw luxury fabric on a timeless aesthetic. It’s a perfect blending of classic prep signage with a little extra “capital f” fashion love. Feel that validation when reaching for the go-to knit v-neck this season. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/41ec1f3c-40ca-424e-a901-06833fa95bca/Screenshot+2024-11-01+at+3.57.36%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING/SUMMER 2025 - TWO BOUDOIR GIRLS TALKING TO EACH OTHER LIKE EXACTLYYYY Alignment in SS25 was key, and following subsequently with a cinema of emboldened shape and extremely considered styling is a nod towards all things boudoir that has shaped the new season of core femininity. A mood of romantic revelry has superimposed last season’s coquette, peachy woman, allowing her to mature into a beguiling creature—sensual and incredibly intelligent. There was an overarching vintage aesthetic to those that adopted the sultry beat: Gucci’s lace, Chloe’s layered wispiness, and Christopher Esber’s decadent, feathered insouciance. Ambiances that took your breath away, full stop. This heralds in a contemporary examination of the theme of beauty: what is beauty today? SS25 finds beauty in moods of bygone eras, sheer flirting, and charm in constructed attitude. Bras and bloomers have become staples for a wardrobe, and the return of London staple Nensi Douala confirmed as much with her effortless sculptures of sheer bralettes and tulle floating down the runway. It’s all very whimsical, diaphanous. In that lightness we are able to understand the sultry allure referencing period drama: she’s a creature, ethereal even, and extremely clever. We see the strongest narrative of both this attitude and SS25’s intense styling play out at Valentino, where Alessandro Michele, and I don’t use this word lightly, bewitched us into the new Valentino world. She was flouncy, vintage, demode of modernity in lace tights, flouncy milliners, and decadent color. “I was looking for something that had been forgotten,” Michele noted. Richness and recklessness. SS25’s deceptive beauty. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/af26dd39-9a18-43d6-86dd-ffa11949e80d/Screenshot+2024-11-01+at+3.53.50%E2%80%AFPM.png WW SPRING/SUMMER 2025 - SHE HAS RANGE The most notable position womenswear consistently possesses across seasons is the ability to find multifaceted charm where you least expect it. In SS25, it’s her range of expression. Beyond the scope of misaligned styling, obsessive accoutrement, and colorless boundaries, we can also see a strong theme of womenswear reimagining conventional perfection, spanning from overarching aesthetics down to our singular basics. To start with a wide lens, we see multiple angles of textured layering with sheers and strict fabrics from brands like Hermes, Stella McCartney, and Victoria Beckham being used to give depth to an otherwise dismissive workwear performance. We see the formal shirt develop into an asymmetric staple paired with bold accessories, an otherwise dismissed peep-toe shoe, and strapless bandeaus. In suit, the entire coding of workwear is mutated into hybrids and halfsies across Bottega Veneta, Courreges, AWAKE, and Rabamme. Is that... a one-legged pant? It is. Deconstruction is an extremely important theme in SS25, as the intellectualization of the norm has turned things inside out, upside down, and thrown off-kilter anyone that has ever thought we could just wear clothes and it be simple. This is reflected further at Prada, Ferragamo, and Diesel, where wrinkled uniforms walk down the runway and reckon the ideal of perfection. It ushers in the acceptance of one’s limits: the SS25 woman is multifaceted, multilayered. She isn’t just one ideal; she’s a range of emotions, disorder even. There is an incredible amount of excess thought thrown into the illusion of disarray, which begs the proposition that her range might not be such a mess at all. It could just be clever provocation and a slap of satire. https://bridgetknowles.com/mw-fall-winter-2025 daily 0.75 2025-02-21 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/2c89ff44-1bce-4cea-ad81-4c51c0cd2ee5/Screenshot+2025-02-18+at+3.04.16%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL / WINTER 2025 - SOBER CURIOUS If fashion can be reduced to design for a consumer’s life stage, then we’re witnessing a shift: consumers are stepping away from the quiet luxury hustle and embracing a simpler, more rustic revitalization. This generation is redefining what personal optimization—and by extension, personal style—truly means. Modern consumers, burdened by macroeconomic pressures and overwhelmed by product overstimulation, are adjusting their spending habits and seeking a guilt-free response to anxiety-ridden flows. Whether your full-time employed or unemployed friend on a Tuesday, they’re likely seeking the same thing: sobriety. This natural pushback is evident in Men’s FW25, which flirts with a therapeutic laziness, attempting to create space for individuality that’s less dependent on fleeting trends and more rooted in personal style. Consumers are now looking for fashion that significantly improves their daily lives—clothing that nurtures them in a tangible way and delivers real value for money. Consider the quietness of this season: no Gucci, JW Anderson, Loewe, or Fendi. The carousel of creative directors has become almost incomprehensible. Men’s fashion feels lethargic, struggling to keep up with the relentless pace of womenswear and its ever-turning trend cycle. This distillation to the basics signals new, goal-focused needs—almost as if a core group of consumers has entered a slow modernity phase, seeking orientation in simpler, more mindful ways. In this third-degree consciousness, the viral microtrend cycle that dominated womenswear over the past three years falls flat. Menswear shoppers now value peer influence, the hunt for the perfect product, and making informed, premium financial decisions based on product longevity—often choosing items that last several seasons due to the natural staticity of menswear. After all, there are only so many ways menswear can be tailored, reimagined, and reconstructed. When done right, it can offer timelessness, as brands like Auralee master so well. FW25 showcased this evolution through seamless, floor-skimming trousers at Ami and intricate, niche knits at Zegna. We also saw a return to durable fabrics with long life cycles: leather, denim, and corduroy—natural, high-quality materials that endure. The reemergence of fur reinforces this shift, signaling that the fashion pendulum has swung back, with fur now seen as a timeless piece to keep rather than a point of controversy. Color plays an essential role here too. Shades like 2026 Jelly Mint, Cherry Lacquer, and Cocoa Powder grounded the collection in a contemporary, lab-like design—pragmatic yet personal in expression. As Grace Wales Bonner aptly put it during her presentation, “Clothes are collectibles, and the modern male consumer is creating an archive.” For the FW25 man, self-care is singularity. That and whatever Lindsay Lohan got done. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/dec477fd-cbdb-495e-b4ba-b2d29da48103/Screenshot+2025-02-18+at+3.10.56%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL / WINTER 2025 - CRITERION CLOSET FW25’s heavy hitter was the reimagination of the rich textures and heritage of 1970s coding. Particularly, velvet and corduroy, which exclusively grasped the fair share of rent in Dolce & Gabbana and Amiri’s collections. The resurgence of cultural nostalgia is cementing itself as an antithesis to the sartorial man recent menswear seasons have been pushing. It’s a nod towards what could either be a pushback towards a newfound wave of constraints in an absolutist political environment or, in favor of lightness, a celebration of the rhythmic, progressive man in history that had the ability to seamlessly segue from career to downtown life in functional, charming fashion. The “thinking man” or, in our climate, “the man who’s back to the office to navigate rising living costs” blends everyday comfort and refinement without sacrificing practicality. This romanticized redux has been flirting itself back into men’s fashion after a few silent seasons but has nonetheless catapulted back into the mainstream with brilliant modern styling and flare jean cameos that launched the internet into hysterics after Super Bowl LIX. Color is everything here. It’s rich, earthy, and compelling. Ochre yellow with a mocha, burgundy on an even richer burgundy. Future dusk, both moody and intriguing. It’s all totally encapsulating. FW25’s key colors are reflective of the long-term sway towards the power of transformative colors: emotionally driven evocations that activate all the senses. FW25’s color opts for impact on lustrous fabrics that carry a similar weight of importance: cashmere, corduroy, denim on denim, and this season’s hero, velvet. Velvet’s energy was spurred back into foresight by powerhouses Amiri, Lanvin, and Willy Chavarria, not as a suggestion, but as an agenda in elevating the narrative of elegance, sensuality, and, most definitively, soft rebellion. True homage goes to the flight jacket, whose aviator shearlings went hand in hand with womenswear’s keen interest. The biggest praise goes to buckle-belt denim in FW25, notably when paired with a chunky knit and capped by waist-enhancing silhouettes. Flared jeans, corduroy trousers, tailored wide-leg trousers—cinched shapes exude effortless confidence and sophistication. Jordanluca did it best with their bomber-to-corduroy blending, and Auralee gave it refined sculpting for sharp, quiet appeal. FW25 is a playful tête-à-tête for a man who trophies the nitty-gritty of the archives, racing today towards what will singularly place him both apart in his circle and deeply embedded in niche culture. Ultimately, he is reaching for what will define him as the most esoteric man in any room. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/00ddfccc-a3ab-4cff-802f-06a04055bb88/Screenshot+2025-02-18+at+3.06.04%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL / WINTER 2025 - NOT BEEFING WITH A WOMAN WHO HAS NEVER BEEN FEATURED IN THE CUT Menswear’s growing infatuation with feminine archetypes and its role in the ongoing redefinition of masculinity are emblematic of a larger cultural shift, one that’s mirrored both in the FW25 runway and across the global landscape. As traditional gender norms continue to blur, old clichés increasingly seem out of place. In today's society where voices are interconnected globally, the cultural conversation is actively challenging identity roles that once felt rigid, exposing them as remnants of outdated constraints. FW25 embodies a new vision of the contemporary male role model—one who is not only empowered, pragmatic, and functional but also beautiful, sensual, and delicate. This shift challenges the notion that vulnerability is an attribute exclusively reserved for women, suggesting instead that soft and nuanced expressions of self are not a handicap for male fashion, but an evolution of it. Dior, in particular, serves as a perfect signpost of this shift, skillfully blending gender fluidity with a modern vision that calls for a realignment of traditional notions of elegance and timelessness. Their approach exemplifies how the modern male wardrobe can merge the sensual and the sophisticated, as fluidity becomes central to rethinking masculine style. Drawing inspiration from Dior’s FW54-55 collections, FW25 introduced haute couture pieces for the modern man: satin blouses, opera coats, and ruched-and-bowed cropped jackets in powder pink. This moment marks a significant shift, echoing the period when female fashion reclaimed its voice, and now, men’s fashion follows suit, adopting similar sensuality and sophistication. Similarly, Jacquemus brings a fresh interpretation to male styling by embracing the intimacy of salon tailoring—showcasing nipped waists and dramatic balloon-like proportions in sleeves and trousers. This more delicate, sculpted approach challenges the rigid, utilitarian structures traditionally associated with menswear. Masculinity itself is being redefined through a more inclusive lens, profoundly affecting the way men both see themselves and interact with the world around them. This evolution is not just seen on the runway but felt socially, where concepts of identity, beauty, and emotional expression are being reconsidered. In a world where the W.H.O. has declared loneliness a global health threat, social connectedness has never been more critical. Menswear, recognizing this cultural shift, has begun to tap into realms traditionally seen as outside its scope—such as beauty, wellness, and grooming—reflecting a broader societal interest in self-care and emotional well-being. This shift in menswear also coincides with a reckoning of the male ‘pack mentality,’ particularly in a generation increasingly siloed by technology. Fashion, embracing its role as both a mirror and a catalyst, plays a pivotal part in reshaping the conversation around male self-care. The stigma surrounding these topics is being broken down, making room for discussions of fashion as a tool for nurturing the mind, body, and soul—ultimately elevating the importance of mental health. This evolving formula highlights the transformative power of product development and assortment, illustrating how fashion can serve as a barometer for broader societal shifts towards fluidity. As we continue to see gender roles blend and expand, it’s essential that men engage with traditionally ‘feminine’ spaces—such as beauty, wellness, and emotional expression—to encourage a more inclusive, nuanced conversation. Let's keep these men in women's fields. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/33cfffb4-3b8b-4bed-927f-a3f140407e78/Screenshot+2025-02-18+at+3.41.27%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL / WINTER 2025 - MIDNIGHT COWBOY All eyes are on the West for FW25, where NYC's biggest voice, Mexican-American designer Willy Chavarria, delivers a sharp debut. Chavarria does more than set bold rules; he empowers self-expression. American cosplay has emerged as a maverick, leading this generation’s interest in rustic revitalization. In a time when burnout, hustle culture, and crushing living costs are squeezing a generation, consumers are unplugging from oversaturated media and traditional values, instead embracing an ethos rooted in supportive collectives, rurality, and a return to rudimentary identity. This shift can be summed up as a manifestation of strong identity and pragmatic optimism. What is Paris when turned on its head by a wave of American cowboys? What is fashion when it’s stripped of hierarchy? Is it the loudness of Americana that threatens, or the introspection about human nature it invites? Prada, of course, is the house that dares to explore the latter, presenting a surrealist take on how we dress for our everyday routines. FW25 Prada unpacks the routine experience with a mix of mismatched outfits, American West-inspired indigo denim, ochre brown tones, snap buttons, star motifs, and scuffed paisley boots for the urban cowboy. Bluemarble adds rich context with Western logo tees, patchwork, and skillful layering—checkered flannels, suede calfskin trousers, and leather blousons supercharged with oversized tailoring and printed suiting. Together, they render a frontier worth advancing from the rustic, equestrian-influenced namesakes like Ralph Lauren and Hermes. FW25 embraces decorative items with a cheeky indulgence in texture and Western embellishment. The deeply loved American West is alive with community, sustainable lifestyles, and hearty attitudes in the face of societal expectations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/e83b8bc9-0095-4d05-a57b-2d2360c78998/Screenshot+2025-02-18+at+3.02.44%E2%80%AFPM.png MW FALL / WINTER 2025 - THE MOTO IN YAMAMOTO Gorp deserves esteemed veneration for evolution this season, stepping away from outdoor-facing technical gear and maturing into robust luxury. FW25 moto-Gorp revises technical aesthetics and sporty layering, moving away from the somber, pre-apocalyptic styles of past seasons—representing a generation shaped by climate change and protectionism (both political and personal)—and instead embracing a moto-infused, dynamic character who is adventurous, rebellious, and rich with narrative. FW25 Gorp embodies a supplemental “f*ck off” attitude—a giant leap for the post-Gorp era. Alongside this, Gorp taps into the broader consumer desire for worn-in, personality-driven wardrobes. The FW25 Gorp man has elevated his functional, pocket-heavy pieces with monochrome leather, streamlined silhouettes, and bespoke details like embossing, bold hardware, and unexpected styling choices. He’s a soft adventurer, ageless in spirit. The biker emerges as the dominant figure in FW25’s athletic offerings, with mid-70s influences creeping into the tech runway, as motorcycle motifs appeared at Courrèges, Rick Owens, and Sacai. Major names like Louis Vuitton, Maison Margiela, and the culturally significant collaboration between NYC powerhouse Willy Chavarria and Adidas emphasized this performance-driven, instinctual vibe. Consumer desire for products that satisfy real needs is met with offerings that are practical yet surprisingly cutting-edge and romantic in their tailored FW25 delivery. Gotta hand it to gorp! She really does bring it. https://bridgetknowles.com/ww-fall-winter-2025 daily 0.75 2025-04-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/3bf74590-2c4b-442c-9a96-4bc938c150f0/Screenshot+2025-04-07+at+8.37.40%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL / WINTER 2025 - NOVEAU DOWDY AS AN EARLY RECESSION INDICATOR Fashion week writers and trend forecasters live for the chance to consummate a looming recession into a macroeconomic metaphor—one that perfectly captures consumer sentiment confronted by trade reconfigurations, shifting values, and a reevaluation of what "disposable income" even means. It’s the esoteric writer’s ultimate release. A marketplace pipeline that rebooted itself post-pandemic with dopamine dressing segued into the leisure-hacking of gorp-core and took a detour through quiet luxury, only to arrive—right on time—at its historic default: recessionary style. It goes without saying that the single most talked-about movement, the undeniable elephant in every FW25 room, was skirt length. Gone are the Miu Miu micros. Forget the hot pants of Gucci's past. FW25’s skirts found their place in the quietly anxious, stock-market-downturned, mid-calf “trad” zone area. It’s a skirt length that makes you think, Wow, my groceries have been expensive lately. This season particularly brought the 1940s and '50s into question in an effort to quietly reimagine styles we’ve long deemed dowdy, injecting them with power and sophistication. The result? A matured, clean-girl aesthetic rebranded into simply being the chicest woman alive. Just look at the silhouettes: no-fuss bias-cut slip skirts, an onslaught of every-inch-covered tights and hosiery, and those c*nty little chapeaux. FW25 made clear that embracing timeless fashion might just be the most revolutionary act of our generation: A-lines at Lacoste, cinched waists at Tod’s, beaufonts and stripped-back styling at Miu Miu, knee socks everywhere, and even a quiet return of Calvin Klein monotony. There’s an undeniable attitude at play that is offering a liberating “who cares” sensibility. We’re stripping costume from clothing. To think so far as not to think about microtrends? That might be the most radical expression of femininity and self-assuredness we have right now. The nostalgia isn’t subtle. It’s purposeful. It’s interesting to see how intergenerational this movement is. You can watch a show that exudes sensuality while parading models in chaotic, vintage-inspired, overly styled looks—messy girls in fake fur stoles pulled straight from a grandmother’s attic—and it still feels fresh. It still feels cool. In fact, she is the ultimate cool. There’s a renewed appreciation for individualism—how the FW25 woman can start with a blank canvas of mundanity (a lurex sweater and a midi skirt) and, through personal embellishment and styling, turn it into a manifesto of self. Archival referencing was inescapable this season: the return of Anna Sui and Armani’s tiny hats, the resurrection of Chloé’s Paddington bag, Sarah Burton’s nod to a legendary 1952 Givenchy collection, and of course, the cinched waist—a “New Look” revival that anchored so many collections. This interest in referencing is what carries the FW25 woman into creating the world she lives in. She creates her everyday. This is why the new wave of interest in archival fashion and accessorizing feels so essential, even political. It’s intimate, it’s ethical, and it’s necessary. How many times must Prada and Miu Miu spell it out lately? Eliminate the obsession with cost, reclaim the need for personal style, and liberate the cyclical fashion cycle. Be messy— it’s charming. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/4565902f-4ed2-4929-92bc-5649e25a5722/Screenshot+2025-04-07+at+8.28.25%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL / WINTER 2025 - THE FEMALE BODY AS A MEDITATION FW25’s hero was the hourglass shape, with Miuccia Prada herself reaffirming what history has long understood to be true, powerful, and beautiful about the female body: “the identification of the feminine is synonymous with the curve.” The curve of a woman’s hip has carried many meanings across time. In ancient cultures, it symbolized fertility—the body as a vessel for life and abundance. During the Renaissance, it reflected wealth and indulgence. In the Victorian era, it became a modest expression of sensuality and class status. More recently, it’s been a sign of rebellion and ownership—think: the low-slung waists of the early 2000s, Kim Kardashian’s massive silhouette blown up in Times Square. The way fashion shapes the female form over time has always mirrored our relationship with feminine strength—both in its exaggeration and in its erasure. FW25 challenged us to reconsider the waist as a pointed site of significance. The contrast of narrow waists and full hips represented more than symmetry; it was a visual language of discipline and biological allure. Together, they imply a quiet, commanding power. No one studied this more iconically than Christian Dior with his “New Look”—a silhouette that didn’t just mold curves but reshaped cultural ideals in the process. Beauty is a construct, sure, but what happens when that construct is the natural female form? It’s been a long time since the runway has genuinely celebrated womanhood without venturing into caricature or cosplay. FW25’s subtle nod toward classicism—seen in the revival of belts, lace dresses, and corsetry—felt like a reclamation. In doing so, FW25 reduced the female body shape into two radical forms: hyperbole and silhouette. The more rigid approach came through the return of the peplum. Its influence was widespread across FW25: crimson peplum dresses at Alexander McQueen, Dior’s New Look refresh, and most notably, Sarah Burton’s debut for Givenchy, where the dialogue between art and anatomy created her “modern woman.” Conversely, at Alaïa and Tory Burch, the hourglass was softened. She was draped and swaddled in goddess-like references, presenting the female figure as a monument. She’s Venus: sensual, idealized, and entirely her own. Each curve intentional, each fold considered. Whether shown as a muse, divine force, creative agent, or cultural icon, the focus on the female figure and its anatomical clarity offered a larger meditation on the contemporary woman. Further, when we place the historical celebration of the hourglass in dialogue with today’s values, its resurgence becomes more than aesthetic. It feels emotional. To accentuate and affirm the body in this way is to resist any narrative that divorces beauty and identity from womanhood in favor of domesticity or neutrality. It’s an unspoken statement of power: my body is the essence of my form, my beauty is my self-expression, and the structure in which I present it is my declaration of total ownership. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/023f2196-9cf7-45c6-9959-d55d9081375f/Screenshot+2025-04-07+at+8.39.15%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL / WINTER 2025 - THE WOMAN DESTROYED FW25’s most compelling narrative revolves around femininity in the context of the female gaze and the manosphere. There isn’t a woman today who wouldn’t blindly follow Miuccia Prada anywhere, as her FW25 collection of “femininities” advanced the conversation on the complexities of womanhood and the art of dressing. Here, we meditated on what our personal style communicates. Who are we dressing for, and what does the act of dressing reveal about us? Femininity is multifaceted, and within those layers, we’re asked to understand what elements of historic female coding we want to retain and if it is the notion of desire or decidedness that is driving us forward. Hats, brooches, bullet bras, frills, and stoles—if we examine each element, can we understand its purpose? More importantly, does it serve us? Miu Miu’s FW25 collection unpacks this in a celebration of eclectic fashion and a rejection of conformity. The "undone" style Miu Miu has coined—seen also in the kitschy-print long skirts and quarter-zip layering at Sandy Liang—has left nothing to the imagination, as every stylistic choice covers female form head-to-toe. The FW25 generation, particularly Gen Z, has shifted the conversation around sex and seemingly rejected traditional notions of sex appeal in favor of countercultural dressing that challenges the historic concept of femininity. By dressing women in absurdly detailed, layered, and intentionally exaggerated ways, who does she become in the eyes of men? FW25 answers: She becomes repulsive, and in that repulsion, she reclaims her womanhood. From incel culture to red pill ideologies, the menacing influence of the manosphere is being reckoned with by those who command our visual platforms today. Miu Miu’s midi dress and knee-high stockings aren’t meant to invite the male gaze. Louis Vuitton’s array of “everyday excess” can’t be reduced to a singular, palatable trend. Ganni’s Parisian woman, covered head-to-toe, isn’t dressing to please anyone’s aesthetic; it simply is. It’s intentionally bizarre and, altogether, weird. When femininity is no longer tied to the need to please male desire or match beauty standards, the FW25 woman emerges. She’s not performing femininity; she’s reconnecting with herself. Now more than ever, she communicates this reconnection through thoughtful, individualistic dressing. This shift is her demonstration of confidence and complete ownership of identity. There is protection in chaos—this is her shield. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/83a488e7-5786-4411-bd2e-3dfd4d7bad09/Screenshot+2025-04-07+at+8.57.38%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL / WINTER 2025 - FUR’S RECOVERY PIPELINE If FW25 is having a conversation about nostalgia and protectionism, fur is its loudest, most luxurious player. This season, any hesitation around the ethics of supply chains seems to have taken a backseat to the enduring power and timelessness of fur. Whether faux or an animal derivative, fur showed up in nearly every designer’s vocabulary, across every silhouette and styling form imaginable, adding a welcome dose of loud panache and theatrical grandiosity to the runway. The opulence of long, trailing fur coats at Ferragamo and Schiaparelli offered a sumptuous blend of playfulness and heritage, which was especially notable in an industry currently obsessed with signaling depth and non-superficiality. There’s a wink in grabbing a cropped little fur jacket from Prada, there’s cheek in wearing an exaggerated Fendi overcoat that demands the attention of a room, and there’s commitment where we need it most in Stella McCartney’s head-to-toe faux cowhide. It wasn’t just the coats, either. Faux fur and shearling accessories draped models across the board from Chloé’s vintage-inspired fur stoles, Gucci’s fuzzy pouch bags, and Simone Rocha’s detachable collars and fur-trimmed bralettes all contributed to a fully tactile runway experience. This collective solidarity on fur gave FW25 a kind of textured femininity that complements today’s “everyday eccentric”—the woman who dresses head-to-toe in vintage, doesn’t overthink the extra, and is probably the weirdest person in any room. Grandiose frivolity is back— an untamed, maximalist spirit that fits perfectly with the chaos and eccentricity of FW25 styling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/962f62cb-28ee-4529-b0be-87af11cb2518/Screenshot+2025-04-07+at+8.56.49%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL / WINTER 2025 - HORSE PLAY Reflecting on heritage during the window of opportunity that a recession provides, especially when designers play musical chairs to secure their next house for the long haul, can feel tongue-in-cheek, even indulgent. And yet, FW25’s poetic country calls ushered in a season less obsessed with brand signaling and more preoccupied with the return of the socialite and her equine advantage. When we think of brand heritage, it’s often filtered through a lens of mid-century romanticism: countryside estates, leather, tweed, herringbone, and fur. It’s Burberry’s unmistakable check, Hermès leather, and Brunello Cucinelli’s Italian craftsmanship paired with a devotion to family and legacy. You can’t help but smile at something so classic. FW25 honored these codes but turned elitism on its head in favor of contemporary dandyism, a historic posture of both rebellion and self-promotion. Dandyism is exuberant but intentional, a self-fashioned strategy that challenges exclusionary aesthetics while still playing with what's "in vogue.” More so aggressively in Vogue when it will be the highlight of the Costume Institute's 2025 exhibition. The season’s collective nod to heritage revealed a respect for rustic completeness, with equestrian aesthetics standing in as symbols of tradition and quiet luxury. Anna Sui and Brioni’s modernized riding boots became countryside staples; Daniel Lee’s Burberry barn coats and Bora Aksu’s historical riding habits offered tactile escapism. Outside of literal horse-girl codes, the yearning for reservation and refinement showed up in the aristocratic high neck seen in McQueen’s Elizabethan cuff collars, Chanel’s delicate ruffles, and Ann Demeulemeester’s gothic layering and flouncy tunics that felt Renaissance in nature. Maybe it’s a nostalgia for romanticized, unhurried countryside living. Maybe Bella Hadid was just ahead of the curve. Either way, the houses of FW25 are leaning into heritage, their untouchable codes, to create enough visual space to reintroduce newer, more diverse narratives. There’s room now to rewrite what legacy looks like. But for now, it's horse girl. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/5c6c37c6-eebf-4bac-8c7d-5e9c62fa10d8/Screenshot+2025-04-07+at+8.43.37%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL / WINTER 2025 - I THINK MANY OF YOU ARE LIKING CUBISM IN A PERFORMATIVE WAY If one end of the FW25 runway spectrum leaned into nostalgia and self-reference, the other veered toward geometry in art—shapes crafting a portrait of “meta in the madness.” Perspective became a pillar of the season—its own multi-hyphenated, distorted form. The philosophy of Cubism, once a radical break from traditional aesthetics, resurfaced here as a conceptual framework: a way to reconsider how we see the world and the body within it. In dialogue with a generation questioning gender, identity, and presence, FW25 offered a kind of trompe l’oeil: What is the human body, really? Junya Watanabe delivered a masterclass in Cubist silhouette—angular, architectural, unexpected. It was less fashion and more sculpture. Courrèges brought a flirtier interpretation with a nod towards the shape of the shift dress, the flatness that symmetry imposes, and the way hoods and capes can fold into the body—embellished or armor-like. At Vivetta, sharply pointed A-line minis looked like they were slicing through air as they walked. FW25 suggests there’s reason and form if we focus on chaos. That by looking at your everyday, normcore realities with a sense of hyperbole, we can discover new perspectives on craft and our very own existence. The body is multitudes: it’s exciting, alluring, and incredibly functional. It’s also weird how we adorn it daily. That’s a nature Thom Browne studied on runway with coats “wearing” dresses, or Vaquera pointed to with rigid, high-neck shoulder silhouettes and massive pearl necklaces that begged Photoshop-level existence. FW25 suggests that if you know where to look, there is logic in chaos. Hyperbolizing normcore realities—everyday shapes, daily dressing rituals—offered new perspectives on function, form, and existence. The human body is multitudes: sensual, strange, capable. It’s also a bizarre ritual that we dress it every day. That strangeness was fully explored at Thom Browne, where coats “wore” dresses, and at Vaquera, where rigid shoulders and oversized pearls suggested a reality so absurd it felt photoshopped. The presence of that amplified shoulder is especially important here, as broad, sharp shoulder silhouettes call to mind 1980s female corporate ladder climbing, its dress-for-success bluntness, and a “borrowing from the boys” mentality. In there lies the construct of who possesses power with form, that if Saint Laurent can send down woman after woman in fuss-free, power shoulders, is that the purest form of a strong woman? This was also seen in the Stella McCartney and Versace women: a pointed silhouette, a cubist shoulder. It’s sturdy and uncompromising. It asks you what this woman, who can easily occupy space and encompass your perspective, is to you. The strong shoulder became especially telling in this narrative. Its return recalled 1980s corporate feminism—the era of “dress for success,” shoulder pads, and “borrowing from the boys.” It raised the question: who gets to hold power through form? When Saint Laurent sent model after model down the FW25 runway in sharp, uncompromising shoulders, can we reduce that to the purest expression of female power? The same energy pulsed at Stella McCartney and Versace: pointed silhouettes, cubist shoulders, women who take up space. There was also a deliberate goofiness going on—especially in footwear. Puffy wedge shoes at Louis Vuitton made models float; witchy high-pointed toes at Marc Jacobs made them fight for their lives to walk. Marc, of course, is a whole other conversation on shape and absurdity. His SS25 and FW25 collections have inflated volume to the point of parody—pulsating, stiff, cartoonish, defying logic, and collapsing structure into cardboard-like absurdity. And yet, in that tension lies a truth: the FW25 woman seeks fluidity and ease, but Cubist fashion reminds us that beauty, identity, and function are not always easy to reconcile. Sometimes, silhouettes hurt to look at. Sometimes, a new perspective forces us to see ourselves and the modern sentiments we hold. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/540ab4a9-ad32-44dc-b6f3-8a61af9665b1/Screenshot+2025-04-07+at+8.58.40%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL / WINTER 2025 - THERE’S A COLOR STORY I WANT TO CLOCK WITH YOU BUT I’LL LET YOU LIVE The idea of “maximalism” as a trend in FW25 flirts with uncouth territory. Over the past few seasons, we’ve seen narratives attempt to push hyper-joy and rebound aesthetics, reverse rubber-band responses to post-pandemic consumer sentiment. Others embrace the more grounded realities of the fashion marketplace. Either way, calling this current moment a “maximalist movement” feels overly optimistic—and increasingly disconnected from the messaging designers are actually sending. There’s no real sense of celebration or camp this season. But there is fashion as a form of escapism and resistance—particularly in the way color was weaved into FW25. Not maximalist color for the sake of chaos, but a color-led maxim that grounded collections in emotional clarity. Saint Laurent embodied this POV perfectly, sending model after model down the runway in strong, color-blocked, power-shouldered silhouettes ranging from Violet to Kelly Green, Fuchsia, and Tangerine. Elsewhere, Prada flirted with an acidic Green Glow, Balenciaga doubled down on Hot Pink, and Acne wove in Violet and Crimson Red with the chaotic spirit of Björk in the background, a nod to the randomness of human behavior and expression. What was most striking wasn’t how much was on display, but how little needed to be. There was emotion in the place of decoration. These collections leaned heavily into FW25’s broader themes: the importance of silhouette, the quiet power of modesty, and the beauty of turning a manufactured product into something deeply personal. There’s a tenderness, a kind of honest intentionality, behind much of what was shown this season. In that, FW25 reflects an emotional appetite clearly mirrored in the culture of consumption right now. So, power to the color stories everywhere; never leave them behind in the narrative. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/851bcc9f-1ac6-489b-850f-220c4af29747/Screenshot+2025-04-07+at+9.04.20%E2%80%AFPM.png WW FALL / WINTER 2025 - THE GOTHIC GIRL THAT WILL DISRUPT YOUR HEALING There’s always a seductive undercurrent driving women’s runway each season. We’ve seen her emerge as the barely dressed tease, the boudoir muse, the noir vixen, and the coquette flirt. In FW25, she evolves into a siren—part romantic gothic, part moto-boho revivalist, part punk-inflected rebel. She embodies the raw, subversive femininity that’s always lived just under the surface. She’s darker. Grittier. Lace-adorned and leather-bound. She’s messy and medieval. Her ascent from dreamy bohemia to something rock-ridden and nostalgic is built on flowing sheer dresses, thick belting, and an aura of rebellion. What stands out most this season is the volume added to lingerie dressing. FW25’s layered maxis aren’t screaming for attention but are quietly commanding the room with movement and mystery in place of overt provocation. It’s in the details: lace-up elements at Sinéad O'Dwyer and Dilara Findikoglu, sheer stockings at Isabel Marant, aviator toppers at Burberry. At Ann Demeulemeester, pinstripes, rockstar tailoring, and intricate fringe dusted off the archives for a new edge. It’s all stitched together by a “couldn’t care less” attitude that makes the FW25 woman feel truly untouchable. Valentino, in what now feels like a trilogy of seasons, continues to perfect this woman. Romantic lace layers, vintage adornments, and an iconic red-lit room created a mood that balanced dark melancholy with radiant, feminine allure. Haider Ackermann’s debut at Tom Ford added even more range. His vision of leather-bound sensuality was pared back, restrained, and all the more potent because of it. What’s sexy, after all, might just be a perfectly tailored crimson leather coat. FW25 feels like a fantasy written by women who know their power. It’s a charisma that fuses softness with toughness, romance with rebellion, and seduction with total self-possession. The FW25 woman isn’t trying to be seen. She already is. https://bridgetknowles.com/mw-springsummer-2026 daily 0.75 2025-08-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/6d091a32-ea79-4515-b353-f7688ab4e7aa/Screenshot+2025-08-10+at+10.41.48%E2%80%AFAM.png MW SPRING/SUMMER 2026 - SPRING BNOC Clubhouse classics are a casual refinement dominating sportswear through a lens of legacy and iconography. In SS26, polished codes receive the American charm treatment, with relaxed horizontal-striped polos, deep V-necks, and lightweight linens offering the spring man a breathable, laid-back repose. The long game is to strike the balance: soft suiting paired with a summer cap for Dunhill; classic V-necks with statement-led logos at Dior; and color-blocking polos at Louis Vuitton. The duffle bag emerges as a hero piece in canvas, leather, and striped trims—nodding to the nostalgia of vintage sports kits. There’s a respectfully passionate eye drawn toward the SS26 collegiate man this season, where details, much like the rest of the season, are the dominant force. It’s quiet in nature, but speaking volumes for designers like Pharrell Williams and Véronique Nichanian. Timeless motifs form the casual structure of modernity, as sensible as they are traditional. It’s a loop that will forever keep heritage in motion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/59b15185-3664-4f9e-92c0-16a848eec22e/Screenshot+2025-08-10+at+10.53.48%E2%80%AFAM.png MW SPRING/SUMMER 2026 - VERDANT CHARM If the weathering down of SS26 was designed to conceptualize a new form, then a garden fantasy is the breezy essence that distills it. SS26’s verdant charm serves as an open invitation to reconnect with the circadian rhythm of life, granting clothing and the art of dressing an open honesty that’s savored rather than employed. This emphasis on nature aligns with a call to realism and the meaningful ways we center our daily lives amid overstimulation, chronic internet culture, and cost burnout. Strategic joy becomes a tool for the optimist to find utility through affirmative signaling. It’s manifested here in the reimagination and de-escalation of the wardrobe, with comfort framed through rural escapism. Pastels form a key storyline in this palette and the lush narrative of spring’s renewal. Tonal mint greens appear across effortless knits, functional fisherman sandals, and seamless utility outerwear, grounding the SS26 man in intentionality. A spectrum of refinement, from tailored pants to blazers, points steadily toward a fresh perspective of everyday softening. It’s hushed, nurtured even. Look to Giorgio Armani for gentle function or Acne Studios for whimsy in botanics. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/9dfc8157-a2ad-4ec8-bb95-11799aec51b2/Screenshot+2025-08-10+at+10.50.28%E2%80%AFAM.png MW SPRING/SUMMER 2026 - SLEEPER HIT An emphasis on clothes that make sense in respecting the natural cycle of everyday life must also carve a nod to soft harmony. More readily, it’s a nod to rest. When modern luxury becomes commodified to the point of being unreachable for the average household income, consumers naturally gravitate toward cultural obsessions that are accessible. We see it time and again: a love for movies during the Great Depression, Dior’s mass-produced “New Look” post-WWII, thrift culture in the 1970s, post-2008 diffusion lines, and contemporary dupe culture. In our case today, it’s sleep. This makes sense in a society plagued by witherwill—the longing to be free from responsibility. When we have everything we could virtually want and need at our fingertips, cultural logic points us toward glamorizing more meaningful environments that make us feel calm and safe. We’re burnt out on gorp and nature even, yet the market for self-care and rest remains premium. Sleep aesthetics lighten the load and help romanticize the free mundanities of life. It’s a small but significant way to grasp luxury tangibly and stands in direct opposition to the pressures of hustle culture and burnout. SS26 taps into this energy by making sleepwear lifestyle statements with airy cotton sets, soft pastel pants, and tactile fabrics like silk with intentional design. Call it a day and look to Dior’s onesie, Jacquemus’ henleys, or the softly striped pairings at Officine Générale for bedtime notes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/e1c7d467-26f5-41f3-818e-9d4c24c25e04/Screenshot+2025-08-10+at+10.43.36%E2%80%AFAM.png MW SPRING/SUMMER 2026 - WEATHERED DOWN A step away from the fantastical is a commitment to the wearable for SS26. It’s clothing that makes sense: form, movement, function. Built for the heat and seemingly sculpted by nature, it reflects a singular movement toward affordable and sustainable lifestyles beyond big cities. As people grow apprehensive toward technology and AI-engineered aesthetics, SS26 offers a directional shift toward the natural notes in life. Raw, tonal beige neutrals evoke desert landscapes that hard to categorize as casual or refined. The fluidity of this dress offers high adaptability, globalism, and timelessness. You can’t put it in a box because it exists as spring dressing built for, and in harmony with, nature’s form. Open-knit jerseys at Hermès, structural cores at Jacquemus, and flowing forms at Zegna and Ami all contribute to the quiet strength a colorless palette can possess. Hats, in particular, are noteworthy for SS26. The wide-brim sun hats at Setchu, Armani, and Prada serve not only practical function for spring but also a personal invitation to storytelling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/0113fe83-72c7-4cf2-9699-0db4e7517eb5/Screenshot+2025-08-10+at+11.09.11%E2%80%AFAM.png MW SPRING/SUMMER 2026 - WORTH NOTING A season depleted of exploding algorithms has to have its moment somewhere, and that moment lies with the toes of SS26. The most conversational it-shoe of the season is the toe cleavage headline. Nearly all major houses featured this now-cemented spring go-to on the runway: Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Auralee, and, the coup de grâce, Prada. Taboos can shift quickly when done right, and styling is crucial here: the flop can only be balanced with soft tailoring. Its ultimate use is in the city, elevating minimalist looks. Dare not use it for practical or sportswear purposes. Casual now means tailored, and there’s no denying spring will be ushered in this season with a cult-like smack of thongs on pavement. https://bridgetknowles.com/ww-spring-summer-2026 daily 0.75 2026-01-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/548f12df-0c8b-4a17-8ea2-0ac39527323c/00024-saint-laurent-spring-2026.jpg WW SPRING / SUMMER 2026 - THE RAW RAISON D’ÊTRE Each year brings a fresh cycle of top-level political absurdity. Expecting creativity to thrive in the constant churn of efficiency, geopolitical tension, and our beloved ‘economic uncertainty’ is unreasonable, especially as AI rewrites the script in real time. Rome wasn’t built in a day—but fuck, AI probably could have done it, em dash and all. Consumer sentiment isn’t melodramatic for adopting a doomsday stance. That’s life. It continues anyway. So we keep reframing what we’re living for each season and where we imagine society is going. How do we detach from a seductive level of ease? Lately, our innovation pipeline, in macroeconomic terms, has been our humanity itself. Our priorities are shifting. Film and nostalgia are rising. Communities are romanticizing gatherings to play chess or run together. We’re even romanticizing the person who avoids Instagram. Elusiveness has become a form of currency. At the same time, we’ve built an animalistic, fragmented digital ecosystem where every engagement online becomes a clash of values. Rage-bait keeps the wheels spinning for brands. At what point does human exchange degrade enough that we stop trying to align our morality in favor of a feedback loop of digital validation? Why would the average consumer want to publicly engage or identify with anything anymore? All they do is get yelled at by competing algorithm cults. More people are asking what it means to live in the present and live well. We crave a rawness that AI therapy can’t simulate. We need tactility or we lose our minds. Think about solitary confinement. Would it be any less solitary if you were handed Instagram and TikTok? After the pandemic, we overcorrected the knowledge economy. We know too much, too often, everywhere, and we’re creating so many conversations that the idea of a single “right thing” becomes impossible. There is no universal correct thing. Take microtrends. In the last five years, we built a culture of miniature perfectionisms that compressed identity into rigid rules of what to do and what not to do. Thankfully we woke up from that fever dream. How long could we have existed in a categorical world of bloke boys and cottage girls? Would we have had to make children choose a category at birth? Enter the urbanite of SS26, the first physical embodiment of a cultural step back toward raw rigidity and deflated ego. We’re moving into an era where you don’t need to define yourself on paper to prove anything to anyone—to prove you’re someone. The SS26 woman is attuned to her physical environment because she actively lives in it. Her new raison d’être is to mirror her surroundings with raw functionality, refined minimalism, wearability, and smart outdoor pieces. She chooses a lifestyle that helps her get things done with her own hands because she cannot afford to be anything but fluid. She is also exhausted by the internet dictating her choices. She will figure it out herself, as humans have done for thousands of years, learning within the natural margin of error. In SS26, we see a blend of classic office attire and athletic pragmatism. There are Saint Laurent raincoats built for the city, Coperni thong sandals for quick exits, and brut, durable denim from Ahluwalia. We invest now because we need things that last. Everything is multipurpose, singular in code, and naturalistic. Kent & Curwen illustrated this flawlessly with a palette that mirrors the environment: Pea Green, Pickled Green, Dusty Green layered together. There is Vanilla Yellow and Popcorn Yellow, with a wider rise on the horizon, as seen at Jacquemus. And it is almost guaranteed that Rhode Beauty’s marketing team will soon push creamy yellows. Their strategy is color data. The script writes itself. Men’s SS26 echoed the same naturalistic sentiment, a seismic return to the naturesque as a visual ideal and a genderless foundation. The emphasis is on ease and neutrality. It isn’t minimalism because nothing about this is minimal. It works hard for adversity and functionality by creating wardrobe circularity that still feels tactile due to its stiffness and untreated textures. And you layer. Then you layer again. You don’t reinvent. You mix fitted and baggy silhouettes, and like Alaïa, you account for what the physical landscape actually is: curvy, strict, loose, evolving. It is Prada’s windbreaker shells, overalls, funnel necks. All made from fabrics that withstand unpredictable weather: shell, cotton twill, rainproof textiles. This connects directly to the trend of romanticizing styling over possession. The person who knows how to style is a survivalist. They refuse the easy way out—an anti-nod to AI and hyper-efficiency. Footwear follows the same narrative. Boat shoes return as slides. Moccasins hybridize themselves to adapt to aesthetics instead of clinging to labels. Nothing is sharp or angular. Everything is soft and rounded, aligned with our desire for flexibility and the deconstruction of geometries that define social codes. It is, quite literally, taking the shape of the outside world and merging sportiness with sophistication. A symbiosis between body and landscape. The lure of digital conformity has created a hunger for unplugging, escaping, and seeking affordable lifestyles. The SS26 woman pioneers a cultural shift toward the “touch grass” aesthetic. We now prioritize utilitarian uniformity that exudes self-confidence. It must be honest to the world we live in, durable, long-lasting. Even for the most discerning aesthetes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/54fb9244-64bc-4541-b70e-2121461cee1e/00033-bottega-veneta-spring-2026.jpg WW SPRING / SUMMER 2026 - CREATIVE DIRECTOR’S CUT For the first time in a fashion cycle, and given the immediate global reach of social media today, a social shift did not paint itself through a visual narrative but became the narrative itself: the long-awaited debuts of the CD musical-chairs cycle. “Do you Dare Enter the House of Dior?” opened Jonathan Anderson’s collection, a name now deeply tied not only to fashion, with over ten collections per year, but also to film vernacular. Does he sleep? Obviously not. The attitude behind it—“you know what, fuck it, let’s see it”—could have been the title card for every house this year, as new faces stepped into Chanel (Blazy), Bottega Veneta (Trotter), Balenciaga (Piccioli), Gucci (Demna), and more. Who won the musical chairs? But does the idea of a “winner” measure the success of the brand or the person? Can the two be separated? Or is it too ambitious to think that hard when fashion’s social audience is large enough to have watch parties at Parisian cafés? The same audience that’s at each other’s throats on social media over global politics comes together in solidarity when it comes to being seen in the elusive “it person” room of the day. Maslow at work, I suppose. What the new CDs did well was pay proper homage to the legacy roles they were stepping into, which was the safe bet for a first cycle under a new house name. Pay your dues; see you in FW26. Piccioli nodded to Cristóbal’s heritage and to the modern volume Demna brought to Balenciaga’s silhouette. Burberry went to Glastonbury, as the British instinctively do. Loewe retained its “Spanishness” under McCollough and Hernandez. Gucci reminded us it remains a wealthy household name through Demna’s “The Tiger.” Blazy carried the burden of tweed and made the Chanel girl more wearable, more commercial. A new line of leadership has settled, and Louise Trotter delivered the boldest nouveau-guard statement, ushering a fresh start at Bottega with a season-grabbing fiberglass look that demanded her belonging. Fashion has long craved a sophisticated, fresh-faced, feminine touch in a tired cycle of CD legacy pass-arounds. Seeing a newer face break through is refreshing. Centering a season on the human touch behind legacy brands that will inevitably exist is an innovative way to cement a house’s identity while demonstrating the economic return of a “debut” of a house’s “brand.” It is fashion’s new trompe-l’œil: designed to engage you—and yes, to make you buy. The macro snapshot is clear: by reshuffling creative directors, capital-F fashion sustains a decade-long trend. Big companies grow bigger; the small can barely compete. Pikettyesque. The only counterpoint came from Laura Weir in London, through her newly implemented BFC Fashion Trust for SMEs—an attempt not to equalize the competitive landscape but simply to allow small enterprises to exist. This feels natural in London, the hotbed of new designers and the only city on the fashion calendar where you can still start from nothing and build something consistent. Outside of that, we are too shielded, even enamored, with the cycle of CD placements that we should not romanticize. We’re illustriously keeping power in the hands of the same people. Endlessly. How can history be made, and new ideas emerge, when we keep rebranding the same twenty people? And why is this not part of a broader conversation about competitive equity? Food for thought, cake for thought… let them eat it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/5b487b82-f30e-4f83-b21d-4dff218bf3d6/00024-zomer-spring-2026-ready-to.jpg WW SPRING / SUMMER 2026 - SECOND COMING OF MENTUS COPUS For fashion, for marketers, for anyone offering a commodified good, it is crucial to understand that the global audience has been quietly rewriting traditional standards over the last decade. Retirement schedules, family planning, life stages, the very definition of youth—these markers have shifted, revealing the contemporary “middle life” milestone and the necessity of stretching it, attending to it as if it were the most urgent work of one’s life. We’re living for today because imagining, let alone affording, the future feels impossible. As bleak as that may seem, it is also an opportune moment to embrace reinvigoration and nowness. The reality is that now is all we have; we cannot rely on the security of tomorrow—its climate, economy, our financial stability, our health, even our homes. It is the second wave of hedonism since COVID-19: an appetite for instant dopamine, doing things now, and doing them big. Where enjoyment abounds, flexibility follows. 45% of US consumers in 2025 say they like to stand out from the crowd, up from 36% in 2023. In a world where logging onto your phone triggers waves of “try this,” “listen to this,” “watch this” culture, the abundance of choice—the paradox of choice—is overstimulating. No single person can master all of it, and the corruption of recommendation culture has created algorithms that favor consumer craving over beauty, leaving our aesthetic sensibilities numbed. We see people logging off. Elusiveness is the new cool. WGSN calls this emerging group of extroverts “The Gleamers”—post quiet-luxury urbanites seeking to scale daily joy. Much like the Dopamine Dressers we witnessed immediately after global lockdowns, they are hedonists breaking out of digital routine, signaling that consumers crave novelty and absurdity in late-stage postmodernism. Consider our newfound idolization of millennial cringe: people being cringe is now freedom itself. We also romanticize the entirety of 2016, which, stripped of its flounce, was simply everyone posting without inhibition. It was unrestrained interconnectivity we have been taught to censor in the last five years. SS26 amplifies this desire for daily joy in a harlequin way: polka dots, paradoxes, and messy human moments. It is the capriciousness of Zomer and the zaniness of Diesel eggs in Milan. Polka dots, in particular, feel intrinsically SS26—they could stand alone as a thematic trend. From Altuzarra, Khaite, and Nina Ricci to Junya Watanabe, MM6, and Jean Paul Gaultier, Heuritech has dubbed them the “Big Dots,” with visibility up 55% in Europe in the last year. SS26 explores irony in relativism and the pursuit of pleasure as reckless as a fast car down a dead-end road. Experimentation in volume appears at Bottega Veneta, vibrant pop-art colors at Connor Ives, quirky layering at Carzanza, and historical references reinterpreted not only for house coding but also in a juxtaposition of old and new, childish and adult, serious and absurd. In this second wave of pleasure-seeking, the SS26 consumer is not returning to post-COVID maximalism but moving toward frivolous decorative dressing simply because why not. It is joyful excess. Paisley, fringe, pop, animal prints, and feathers abound. When modern society attempts to erase the innate messiness of humans through AI-driven perfection and efficiency, whether in the food we eat, the clothes we buy, or the way we interact (or fail to), a countercurrent emerges that celebrates personhood. SS26 embraces unpredictability, loudness, and imperfection, and within that space, transformation occurs. Faced with your own morality, don’t you also just want to not give a fuck? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5dab3170ef72120123aabe00/0d437f96-bf83-4b66-a68f-e6fb66d6608a/00010-august-barron-spring-2026.jpg WW SPRING / SUMMER 2026 - SOFIA COPPOLA ARCHIVE BOOK ON HER COFFEE TABLE As I discussed in my Milan recap, one of my favorite narratives on the SS26 runway was a conversation about female autonomy, fetishization, and a male gaze contradicted by inherent innocence. It felt very Varda, even Rohmer. Within this space exists the dialogue between fragility and rebellion, and how fashion can act as a provocative medium to understand, communicate, and ultimately teach the arcane discord of girlhood. In SS26, there are two dominant modes of thought: the girlish, naive awkwardness of teenage spirit, unburdened by the pressures of labels and societal structures, and her foil, the Porcelain Punk—a maturation of the Coquette female into a rougher, grittier punk-rock persona, drenched in dark berry tones. Between them exist symbols and metanarratives: the apron, the bow, the corset, the stocking, the bra, and so on. The trend cycle of soft elegance—ruffles, gingham, bows—as a statement of strength had to evolve. SS26 required it. What emerged, in my opinion, is one of the most thought-provoking sentiments I have seen in the last five seasons: a head-on collision between the “undone, imperfect human” seen at Loewe and Prada for two cycles and the messy, coquette feminine girl, seen at designers like August Barron. At this intersection lies one of the most relatable forms of vulnerability fashion can illustrate: awkward girlhood, teenage innocence. It is an angle that cannot be sexualized either as public-private concept (lingerie dressing) or as melancholy from the dark romantic mystique. Conversely, on runways like Chloé, we see tiered, ruffle skirts returning from previous summers, inching closer to their bohemian realization in next year’s SS27 season. Lace dominates trim, stockings, and even underwear. We see confined female culture: the corsetry and tulle at Rocha, bonnets at Calvin Klein, outward bras at Prada. The juxtaposition of these two approaches creates a space where everything feels airy and innocent, each look playful and steeped in historical reference, a la Marie Antoinette. Dramatic asymmetries and overlays, in butter yellows, lavenders, and baby blues, contrast a lazy notion of playful sensuality, transforming it into a form of strategic transparency. Autonomy, precisely. Is there not freedom in the liberation of clothes and the inhibition of adulthood? At Prada, we witnessed a sort of sartorial improvisation: we woke up and dressed with whatever was on the floor, because our real concerns were not outward appearance. Further, the apron at Miu Miu acts as modern Dada. Miuccia makes a statement to spotlight women like Fratini, pioneers of equality; muses of womanhood whose invisibility is valorized both internally by women and externally on the SS26 runway: “Work as an expression of effort. Work as a symbol of care and love. Work as a reflection of independence,” as Miuccia puts it. Concurrently, aligned with the guileless edge of SS26 girlhood, our cultural climate views utilitarian objects through a lens of usefulness rather than decoration. In essence, the SS26 woman is a bootleg Sofia Coppola film: young, wistful, atmospheric, ethereal, but intrinsically female-owned and female-operated. Like a single, ruffled, elegant garment, she contains multitudes. We found critique through pastiche.